Myford Super 7 - riser blocks

Maybe a little help to others in the same situation.. I was searching for Myford riser blocks, but not finding them available, I decided to make my own from readily available materials and tools, ie. bits and pieces I had in my "scrap bin". Seems to work well. I decided I wanted the screw jacks to be as fine pitched as I could find taps for so and as large diameter as possible. Therefore I found some M20 bolts and modified these to have UNF 3/4"-16 threads. The inside was tapped and fit to bolts that go in the holes in the casting itself. Then a lock nut (brass because this is what I had..) to the riser block itself (steel.. for the same reason). I guess the riser block can be "any material", tapped to fit the jack screw. In reality I guess you could extend the threaded portion of the jack screw and extend these a bit so to tap directly into the foundation if so desired.. Anyway, a very simple yet useful lathe/mill exercise

NB! There are many other (simpler) ways/designs so this is just an example!

btw.. I haven't gotten around to buy a Hex collet block yet, so the way I made the brass nut was to thread the inner section first then then mount it to the jack screw, snug it to the head then mill the sides, gripping the hexagonal sides of the existing bolt

PS! Regarding so called bed twist and the reason for having individually adjustable feet: I made some tests here with a setup where I have the bed bolted down to a wooden bench, although a quite sturdy plate. With a procedure that involves what one might call "calibration before daily use" I find that a single leveling screw in front of the block on the tailstock end, just pushing the "riser block" itself up, I can level the bed with ease and to a satisfactory degree. BUT.. these being just veneer plates they will of course not be a lasting solution. More of a "concept study", I guess. Still, effective if this is the only material you have..

It is also not so that the Myford cabinet is infinitively stiff and solid.. say compared to a DSG or Schaublin solution where the cabinet most often is thick walled cast iron, including the (integral) chip pan and has a considerable weight, but for the bed twist affair I guess it is considered good enough.

PS! It is nice, but really not crucial that the bed or lathe is level.. the important parameter is that the bedways are straight and parallel. Think of a ship workshop where "level" is seldom the case.