Four years after installing my new shingles, they're still nice! Finally I had time to put the video clips together. Please click "show more" below, to know the process much better.
I had only one layer of asphalt composition 3-tab shingles on my roof, so when they were getting worn, I called some big roofers to give me a bid on a "roofover" or "re-roof", which is just adding new shingles atop the old. Surprisingly, none would do it. They all wanted to do a "tear-off" with new underlayment and gutters, which is much more expensive, of course. (Later I found that small companies and handymen are more likely to do roofovers.)
So I looked at my roof, which has easy access, and I decided to DIY. My gutters are still fine, as you can see. The wood plank underlayment had no "soft spots". Looked fine from inside the attic too. I decided their "tear-off" quotes were actually a "rip-off"!
It was a big project, a lot of physical work, and I had to study each step a bit.
My roof is a "hip roof" (no gables) and it has valleys and ridges. If you're not interested in those things, you can skip those parts. Gable roofs are a LOT easier.
A note about electricity: first I was scared of my power lines, but I tested them and found the two hot ones were insulated, and that there was no significant danger from them. I became comfortable around them, but avoided touching them.
Roofovers need shingles of the same exact dimensions as the current ones, so they'll line up perfectly. This makes it VERY easy to position the new ones. Some shingles are metric 39" long and others are English 36" long.
I chose 30-year Landmark shingles, standard kind. I saw better consumer test reviews for them, and they were not expensive. Readily available, too. I avoided the thick textured dimensional "Landmark TL" kind because reviews said "heavy and prone to moss." I wanted to keep it fairly light so that I might even do a third layer later!
I read that for hip roofs like mine, add about 10% to the shingle estimate. I did, and it still wasn't enough, because of my extra ridges and valleys. There are a lot of wasted angle-cuts on roofs like mine, although they look nice. I had to buy still another 10% more shingles than my first estimate.
I considered using a power stapler/nailer like pros use, but that requires a team and some expertise, not to mention rental expense. It made more sense just to use simple hammer and roofing nails. I did most of the work alone, so a team was not an option.
However, two friends and a neighbor helped a lot. Simple things, like doing a chalkline, sometimes need some extra hands. What goes around comes around...
For specific info on shingling around vent covers and pipe flashings, see this short video: • Lifetime Tool ultimate pipe flashing ...
Flashings around electrical service masts are tricky, because you can't replace them unless you disconnect the power lines. Mine was still OK, so I just added some sealing caulk around the edge of its boot. If I ever need it, there are "retrofit roof boots" and pourable roof sealers (aka "pitch pan fillers" that harden in a form) that can be installed without disconnecting the electricity.
Here's a materials list. Other than shingles, I bought most of it in big hardware stores. Shingle supply companies had NICE rooftop delivery.
Materials:
shingles (I estimated square footage; searched online for the manual for the type I chose)
ridge shingles
drip-edge (strips of painted metal that you nail all along the perimeter right above the gutters--it's a spec in the Landmark instructions)
Starter rolls (these are basically the first course of roofing along the bottom perimeter, and they get covered up)
Spray adhesive for starter rolls (to glue the starter roll to the metal drip-edge)
Roof cement (in gallon can and in caulking gun tubes)
various replacement vent covers and boots (to replace the old ones)
Flexible roll flashing (I bought this to fit under my existing chimney flashing, just in case)
Plenty of longish 1.5" roofing nails, loose in box (I think I was planning for 1.25" but for some reason they had less availability for a good price; for a roofover, avoid the shorter 1" nails)
roll of Grace Water Shield (extra water protection for valleys)
roll of Jumbo Tex roof paper (also for valleys, probably wasn't necessary in a roof-over, but doesn't hurt).
some caulk/mortar tubes (for minor repairs to existing chimney and chimney flashing.
From what I read, it's good to get nails with small ridges on the shank, if you can find them, so that they hold better. This job needs a LOT of nails.
Please ask any questions and I'll try to answer them.
I spent about $2500 total, and saved many thousands based on the quotes I was given by contractors. If I had found a handyman to do a roofover, he might have charged an extra $2,000-3,000 labor. And now I understand a major part of houses much better. Heck, I might even go into the business....naah!
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