Surf Simply's Question Time: Taking Off On Steeper Waves

Описание к видео Surf Simply's Question Time: Taking Off On Steeper Waves

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Here are the questions Coach Harry answered during this episode, remember the submit your questions in the comments for Harry to choose from!

MIT - What's the trick to surf steeper waves (3-5ft)? The issue I have is when I use a shorter board with more rocker, its difficult to paddle into these waves and am finding a quick/late take-off. When I use a flatter mid-length, the curve of the wave finds me catching my board nose after my pop-up. Is there a quick tip to try to fix this?

David Gough - After analyzing rail shape, next step in rail discussion would be thickness, which seems as important as edge shape.

OGP - Could you dive a little deeper into (or share a resource explaining) how excess wind energy gets transferred into period instead of height once waves become whitecaps? I'm also curious what causes whitecaps to form, since waves are supposed to only "break" once the distance to the ocean floor is Less than = 1.3 * wave height. Thanks!

2017 Study on formation of Whitecaps: https://journals.ametsoc.org/jpo/arti...

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