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Sacai (stylized in lowercase) is a Japanese luxury fashion brand founded by Chitose Abe (née Chitose Sakai) in 1999. Vogue magazine has cited Sacai as influential in breaking down the dichotomy between casual and formal clothing.



Nike has boasted some of the most significant collaborations within the sports and streetwear industries in recent years. Between joining forces with legendary streetwear brands like Stussy and Supreme to luxury fashion label Off-White, Nike really has done it all. But somehow, despite the impressive back catalogue, their most daring designs have come from the collaborative efforts between Japanese luxury fashion brand Sacai and the sportswear giants.

In this weeks article, I take a look at Sacai’s humble beginnings and the excellent relationship between Nike and the Japanese brand. I also jump headfirst into every sneaker collaboration between the two labels, ranking my favourites along the way.

Where it all began
Japanese designer Chitose Abe founded Sacai way back in 1999. But this wasn’t just somebody taking a chance by creating a fashion label. Obviously, you are not guaranteed success with anything, but Abe had extensive experience within the industry working at some of our favourite brands today before Sacai was born.

Abe began her journey through fashion as a pattern cutter at Comme des Garçons, working directly under founder Rei Kawakubo. Abe would move on to be a part of the design team at Junya Watanbe before eventually going it alone and setting up Sacai. After ten years of honing her craft with Sacai, the brand would begin showing at Paris Fashion Week. Sacai and Abe would start to break into the European market by the time of their second season, being stocked in iconic stores such as Colette in Paris.

Abe owns 100 percent of her business. This means she has absolute control and freedom over the creative process at Sacai. This power, in turn, gives her the ability to refuse and accept collaborations such as the Nike partnership we see flourishing before us. But how did the collaboration come about?

The collaboration
The Nike x Sacai collaboration started long before the release of their sneakers; Abe joined forces with NikeLab to create an apparel capsule back in 2015.

The partnership saw Sacai breath new life into Nike’s performance pieces. A collection focussed of women’s apparel, Abe dived into the Nike archives and retrieved some of her favourite items. These were then re-imagined with Sacai’s signature futuristic look. The innovation used was clear for all to see. The 8-piece collection was swimming in Abe’s intriguing aesthetics. We did get a taste of what to expect from a sneaker collab between the two, with a two-toned laceless Air Max 90 dropping.


Abe is one of the few designers who has managed to master the sartorial dichotomy of casual and formal, allowing her to seamlessly integrate the runway with street. And this has been proven with her Nike sneakers, resulting in one of the most successful and highlight anticipated collaborations of the season, eclipsing even Nike’s collections with Off-White and rapper Travis Scott.

SS20 saw the success of LDWaffle and Blazer Mid, marking Abe’s first collaboration with Nike. Vaporwaffle followed soon after at Sacai’s AW20 runway show during Paris Fashion Week, much to the delight of sneakerheads. Initially thought to be called the VaporPegasus, Sacai representatives eventually confirmed the name change.