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Preserving Your Wedding Varmala at Home
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Discription for vermala preservation at home 1st time

Preserving your wedding Varmala (Jaimala) for the first time is a beautiful way to keep a piece of your big day forever. Since flowers begin to wilt quickly, the most important rule is to start the process within 24–48 hours of the ceremony

1. The Silica Gel Method (Best for Color & Shape)
This is the "gold standard" for home preservation because it keeps the flowers looking 3D and vibrant.

What you need: An airtight container and Silica Gel crystals (available online).

Step 1: Pour a 1-2 inch layer of silica gel into the container.

Step 2: Carefully place your Varmala (or individual flowers from it) on top.

Step 3: Gently pour more silica gel over the flowers until they are completely buried.

Step 5: Gently pour out the crystals and use a soft brush to dust off any remaining sand.

Step 1: Remove any plastic or non-flower decorative elements.

Step 2: Hang the Varmala upside down in a cool, dark, and dry place (like a closet or pantry). Avoid humid areas like bathrooms.

Step 3: Let it hang for 2–3 weeks until the petals feel "papery" and brittle.

Step 4: Lightly spray it with unscented hairspray or a floral sealant to protect it from dust.

3. The Book Pressing Method (Best for Framing)
If you want to put your Varmala in a flat photo frame, pressing is the way to go.

Step 1: Pick the best-looking individual flowers from the garland.

Step 2: Place them between two sheets of parchment paper (don't use paper towels, as the texture will transfer to the petals).

Step 3: Tuck the paper inside a heavy book and stack more books on top.

Step 4: Wait 2–3 weeks. Once flat and dry, you can glue them into a scrapbook or a "floating" glass frame with your wedding photo.
Check for Moisture: Before you put dried flowers into a frame or resin, make sure they are 100% dry. If even a tiny bit of moisture remains, they will rot or grow mold inside the frame.

Handle with Care: Dried flowers are extremely delicate. Use tweezers to move them if you are arranging them in a frame.

Would you like me to find some creative DIY display ideas (like shadow boxes or resin ornaments) for your preserved flowers?

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Resin art

Preserving your Varmala in Resin Art is the most popular way to turn your wedding flowers into a permanent "glass-like" keepsake. Because resin is a chemical process, it requires a bit more precision than simple air-drying.

Here is a beginner-friendly guide to making your first Varmala resin piece.

🛠️ What You’ll Need
Completely Dried Flowers: (Use the Silica Gel method mentioned previously). Never put fresh flowers in resin; they will turn brown and rot inside.

Epoxy Resin & Hardener: Look for "Deep Pour" or "Casting Resin" (usually a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio).

Silicone Mold: A hexagon, square, or heart-shaped deep mold is common for Varmalas.

Safety Gear: Nitrile gloves, a mask (respirator), and a well-ventilated room.

Tools: Measuring cups, wooden stir sticks, a heat gun (or lighter) to pop bubbles, and tweezers.

📝 Step-by-Step Instructions
1. The Setup
Place your mold on a perfectly level surface. If your table is even slightly tilted, your final block will be crooked. Wear your gloves and mask before opening the resin bottles.

2. Mixing the Resin
Measure the Resin (Part A) and Hardener (Part B) exactly according to the instructions on the box.

Stir slowly for at least 3 minutes. Scraping the sides and bottom of the cup is vital.

If you stir too fast, you will create thousands of tiny bubbles that are hard to remove.

3. The "Foundation" Layer
Do not fill the mold all at once. Pour a thin layer (about 0.5 to 1 inch) into the bottom of the mold. Use your heat gun to gently pass over the surface to pop any bubbles.

Let it sit: Wait until this layer is "tacky" (sticky like tape, usually after 4–6 hours) before adding flowers. This prevents the flowers from floating to the top.

4. Arranging the Varmala
Use tweezers to place your dried flowers onto the sticky resin layer.
Slowly pour the next layer of resin over the flowers until they are covered. If you are using a very deep mold (3+ inches), you may need to do this in 2 or 3 separate pours (spaced 12–24 hours apart) to prevent the resin from overheating and cracking.

6. Curing & Demolding
Cover the mold with a cardboard box to keep dust away. Let it sit undisturbed for 48 to 72 hours (check your resin's specific cure time). Once it feels rock-hard and no longer sticky, gently peel the silicone mold away.