Double PURCELL PRUSIK (Single Strand) - FALL PROTECTION for You & Your Tools for Rock & Alpine!

IMPORTANT NOTE: I tied this with four wraps on the bottom and three wraps on the top. That is only because I was tying the hitch in a small diameter accessory cord that is new, which doesn’t yet have good “hand.” Most people are going to tie this with three on top and bottom. Fewer people are going to tie this with three on bottom and two on top.

In this episode, I will demonstrate how to tie a DOUBLE PURCELL PRUSIK using a SINGLE STRAND of rope, which will result in two adjustable (by way of prusiks/friction hitches) loops which are both anchored down at the harness. Each prusik should be no higher than 50% of the way between the termination knot and the top of the loop when pulled. By maintaining this position or greater (moving the prusik towards the termination knot), the climber allows ample room for shock absorption.

In other words, if you were to take a fall onto it, the prusik would have room to slide up the rope, dispersing much of your body’s energy into heat, and limiting the amount of force exerted onto yourself and/or your tools such as hand ascenders or ice picks. The double Purcell prusik is also great for ensuring you don’t lose your tools should you drop them. It also reduces the likelihood of a climber de-sheathing their rope by reducing forces from a fall exerted onto a toothed ascender device because the Purcell prusik will absorb much of it.

The Purcell prusik can be used by anyone looking to organize their equipment and to potentially reduce the intensity of fall factors. It is critical that you use RATED ROPE which can withstand the types of falls you will be taking during the type of climbing you will be using it for. This is most popular among alpinists and ice climbers, however, I’ve seen many rock climbers use it as well. I have used them for tree climbing, but not as fall protection; just as a way to ensure I don’t drop my equipment.

If anyone has any questions or comments, please leave them in the comments section. I’d be happy to assist to the best of my ability! Thanks so much for watching!

Knot-orious