How I clean my Kibler Southern Mountain Flintlock | No more rusty muzzleloaders

Learn more at ilovemuzzleloading.com
This is by no means the ONLY or BEST way to clean your flintlock, or any muzzleloader. This is how I clean MY flintlock long rifle.

In this video, I take you through my flintlock cleaning process in real-time to show you how I go from a nasty bore to a near perfectly clean muzzleloading barrel. I use three products for this in order. I start with Ballistol, then Shenandoah Valley Cleaner, and then some Moose Milk. This process takes time and patience, but it ensures our muzzleloader stays rust-free. In the end, cleaning patches and solutions are the cheapest way to keep your muzzleloader in good condition.

This process takes me about 1 hour to complete, so you are seeing about 50% of my time cleaning. The time I've cut is just running patches up and down the barrel.

After getting the bore and lock clean, I soak the boar with Clenzoil and run a light coat of clenzoil all over the stock and hardware to eliminate any black powder residue that may be lingering.

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VIDEO CHAPTERS
0:00 Introduction
0:30 The Products I Use & WHY
1:48 Soaking the flintlock
4:15 Removing the Flintlock
4:38 Cleaning the Lock
6:54 Cleaning the Touchhole
7:58 Cleaning the Barrel of my flintlock
8:55 The first cleaning patch - more bore cleaning
9:25 Patch Close up
10:10 Why we need to clean
10:37 Patch Progress
10:55 Why dry patches show us how clean the barrel is
11:29 Patch Soaking & Why
12:50 Just about half way to clean
14:00 Anatomy of a cleaning patch
19:33 The Breech Face
22:07 The cleaning patches I use
22:45 Oiling The Longrifle
27:08 Reassmbly
28:48 Start to Finish Patch Overview - Dirty to Clean


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