People's Republic of Fermentation // Episode 04: Dong-style Fish And Meat Fermentation

We visit Qinfen, a Dong village in Guizhou, and learn how they ferment fish and pork.


// PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF FERMENTATION //

presented by The Foundation For Fermentation Fervor

with Sandor Katz
http://www.wildfermentation.com/

and Mara King
http://ozuke.com/

directed, filmed, edited by Mattia Sacco Botto
https://mattiasaccobotto.pixieset.com...

additional editing Fabrizio Grasso
http://fabriziograsso.com/

// EPISODE 04 RECIPES // by Mara King


An Yu (Pickled Fish) or An Rou (Pickled Pork)

3 whole fresh water fish (I used "milk carp" from an Asian store... less bones than trout); or
2 lbs fat pork, skin on if possible (belly or shoulder works)
1 cup glutinous rice
1 cup amazake/jiu niang (previously fermented sticky rice/rice alcohol lees - see notes)
1/4 cup sake / rice alcohol
1/4 cup of sun dried chiles
1/4 tsp flower peppercorns
3 slices ginger
lots of sea salt
another 1/4 cup of chile and 1/4 cup salt mixed for dusting

Note: These are traditionally fermented in the winter or late fall, and might not take well to heat. If you were trying to make these during the hotter parts of the year, use a temperature controlled space.

For An yu: Cut fish from top of head to just above tail. Cut carefully from one side of the spine towards and then through the gut sack... careful to not pierce through the guts. Cut above and below the guts until the fish can be opened like a book. First search for and remove the gall bladder - usually a blackish, greenish, yellowish organ shaped like a long pebble - this is carefully removed as piercing it will stain and foul the flesh. Carefully remove the guts and set aside. Rinse with water using gentle scrubbing pressure from your fingers next to spine to remove any dried blood there. Coat fish generously with salt on all sides. Lay flat, cover and set aside for 3 days. Rinse curing salt off the fish before proceeding to next steps.

For An rou: Cut pork into 4-6 inch chunks. Coat pork generously with salt on all sides. Cover and set aside for 3 days. Rinse/scrape curing salt off the pork before proceeding to next steps.

Soak glutinous rice for 2+ hours. Steam until cooked through but still keeping shape of rice 20-30min (don't overcook into mush). Cool rice to body temperature.

Mix rice with Jiu Niang/amazake, sake, chile flakes, ginger (finely chopped) and flower pepper (ground) into a paste. In a separate container mix 1/4 cup chiles with 1/4 cup salt. First dust all sides of fish or pork with this mixture. Then cover all sides with paste; for the fish, sandwich some inside the open fish.

Line fermentation vessel with something to assist in drainage. In the village. we placed aluminum cans into ceramic crocks, covered in a layer of cotton. Whatever you choose to use - make sure that it is non-reactive. I used a bamboo mesh. This allows the fish to rest in the rice mixture but for excess liquid to drain off underneath.

Ferment for 2 months minimum - 4-5 months for best flavor. When done scrape off most of rice mixture.

For fish, warm on both sides in pan and serve. We saw the fish cut by scissors into chunks... enjoy picking the flesh from the bone. Nice served as a side dish and with steamed rice.

For pork, slice to use in cooking like bacon. Pork can also be eaten as is, sliced thin like salami.


Fish Guts

All the guts minus gall bladder
1 tbs ginger minced
1 tbs oil
pinch of flower pepper
green onion garnish
salt to taste
Cook guts, and ginger in oil over medium low heat. Cook for 20-30 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated off.
The guts and ginger mix will turn a deep reddish brown color and will smell rich and unctuous. Finish by seasoning with salt, ground flower pepper and cut green onions. Delicious with steamed rice.

Glossary/Notes

Flower pepper=Sichuan peppercorn

Amazake/Jiu Niang=the leavings from making rice alcohol. It is easy to buy jiu niang at Asian groceries. It is usually found in the refrigerated section in plastic or glass jars. It is easy to make it yourself too. I made mine from fermenting cooked glutinous rice in my instantpot on yogurt setting for 8 hours with crushed rice yeast balls (also easily available). For more info on this see episode 5's recipes - how to make rice alcohol.

Fresh water fish with fewer bones - this recipe would work well with other (non fresh water) fish too. In Guizhou we used a fresh water carp called Liyu. You could use bronzini, snapper, trout (even though lots of bones these might soften with fermentation and be quite interesting). Finding a neutral flavored fresh or salt water white fish should work fine.

Eating fish guts - they are really good. I've had them in omelets in HK cuisine. Very rich and simultaneously delicate.

Chinese / Korean sundried chilis - Have a bright red color as opposed to the darker red brown of the oven roasted chiles we are used to seeing in the USA. They also have a brighter/sharper flavor so do look for them at the Asian food store.