Looking for the perfect duffle coat? This guide is for you: https://gentl.mn/all-about-the-duffle...
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Today, duffle coats are popular again because they're warm, they're hard wearing and they’re more casual than other items in classic menswear especially overcoats, partially because of the hood, but also because of the toggle closure.
So how is the duffle coat distinguished from other coats and what makes a duffle coat a duffle?
First of all, it's the fabric. It's a heavy 34 ounce boiled woolen cloth in a camel or khaki color. It's about a 1050 grams per meter, it’s usually double-faced and has some form of a twill structure which is similar to Serge.
Two, an authentic duffle coat needs a toggle closure. Originally, that was made out of hemp rope, as well as wooden toggles.
The third hallmark of a duffle is the throat latch. It's supposed to help you close up your neck and protect you from the elements.
Four, an original duffle has shoulder pads. they were reinforcing, kept you warmer, and protected better from the elements.
Five, the duffle coat needs patch pockets that are roomy and comfortable.
Last but not least, the original duffle coat did not have a lining because it was a double faced clot that was very heavy already.
How should you wear it and how is it combined?
Traditionally, a duffle coat was worn on top of uniforms, that meant it was cut roomier if you look at older pictures, you can also see there's lots of excess fabric in a duffle coat, because of that, duffle coats today are cut still wider than maybe other outer garments you own. Of course, that's reflected in the sizing. In this day and age, overcoats are worn a lot slimmer than it used to be even if you wear maybe a suit underneath of it or a sweater and because of that, I urge you to always go down in size or double check on the measurements before you buy something. If you're a purist and you want the original roomy cut, go for it. Because it's more casual in nature, you don’t need to wear it with a tweed coat but I like it a lot with just a sweater. Of course, a cardigan would work as well. It actually pairs really well with denim jeans, with corduroy, with chinos, maybe even woolen slacks.
So what about duffle coat colors?
The classic one are the camel and khaki shades, or maybe some shades of brown such as the one I'm wearing here right now, they are easy to combine with all kinds of camel colors for winter colors such as green, maybe dark Burgundy, and if that's your style, it's the ideal color. Personally, I’d stay clear of black duffle coats simply because black is one of the most overrated color in menswear. Alternatively, I would go with a charcoal gray which just suits it much better.
So what about the length?
Originally, the months or duffle coats were quite long because they were supposed to keep you warm on a ship in a rough sea. Today, most duffle coats are about knee long and you can also find some that are shorter.
So where and how should you buy duffle coats?
I think there is a brand out there called Monty and it sells the original Montgomery, priced around $300. I don’t think it's of the highest quality, I think Gloverall offers some but they’re all so different, their material composition is usually polyamide 20%, and wool 80%. I personally love to find 100% wool duffle coat which is very difficult. In terms of brands, you can find them from Brooks Brothers or places like Lodenfrey in Germany. Also, good duffle coat is Ladage and Oelke in Hamburg.
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