Acoustic to Electric drum conversion. Pros/ Cons, Process, Demo .

I just finished an acoustic to electric drum conversion. I used Yamaha Stage Custom shells.
When shopping for a better E Drum solution, I was shocked with the prices of intermediate to high end kits. Drummers don’t topically have that kind of money.
I decided to use a used cheap Alesis Nitro pad to test piezo sensors and output jacks. Experimented adding a resistor for Yamaha brain (it looks for less signal). I found that what I wanted to do would work!
I was blessed to be able to buy a new Yamaha Stage Custom drum kit for my conversion. (on sale this month, 10% off). I then ordered piezo’s, jacks, resistors, rim protectors, and mesh drum heads from Amazon. I hit the craft store for contact cement. I went to Lowe’s for glue, sand paper, and 1 1/4 poplar blocks,…. For mounting the sensors.
I also got to looking for a used DTX Pro module…. Less expensive than Roland, sounds great, no latency, works with a DAW, and most important,…. Works with my existing E Cymbals.
Project cost was less than half the price of a DTX8 rig and Roland kits of similar spec. It did take me around 40 hours to do the conversion, plus R and D time.

Pros:
*Practice with or without the module.
*Can be switched to all acoustic kit in less than an hour. (Just a head change)
*Looks great.
*Bass drums sits ROCK Solid. (Zero movement)
*Most important to me, I forget I’m playing Electronic Drums! (of coarse that’s with headphones on with a cool drum kit sound)

Cons:
*Drum heads take some time to stretch. I have had to retune a few times in the last few weeks.
*Snare drum needs nylon rod locks to keep it in tune. Rim shots knock the rods out of tune quickly.
*Larger foot print than typical E Drum kits.
*Possibly a little louder than typical E Drum Kits, but with Reso heads removed,… it’s on par with other E Drum kits.

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#drummods
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