My Guide to Ogijima (Seto Inland Sea, Japan)

Hello and welcome to Ogijima. I was fortunate to call this tiny island home for a few months and I’d love to show you around.
So, where are we? Ogijima is in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, about 40 minutes by ferry from Takamatsu.
And what does Ogijima, locally known as Ogi, actually mean? Let’s look at the three characters that make up the name.
It’s literally Man Tree Island and interestingly enough it’s right next to Megijima, yep you guessed it — Woman Tree Island.
Ogi is tiny - you can walk around it in an hour or so, and it’s home to about 160 people.
The great thing about the island is that it’s relatively unknown — so don’t let this video go viral. The majority of tourists head to the bigger islands nearby like Naoshima and Shodoshima.
If you’re looking for big-ticket items, Ogi is probably not for you, but if want authentic Japanese island culture, then you’re in the right place.
Ji no ana, the cave, isn’t really well promoted but it’s definitely worth checking out.
And if you’re looking for a good vantage point on the north, head up to Tank Rock.
The steps here at Toyotamahime Shrine are one of the most popular places on the island for instagrammers and there are extra points on offer if you manage to get one of the ferries in the background.
Ogi is one of the so-called “art islands” of the Seto Inland Sea so there are some pieces permanently on display and every three years there’s an art festival with installations set up in some of the old homes and buildings.
So this is the soul of Ogijima and while it’s incredibly beautiful it can also be incredibly dangerous.
Probably stating the obvious, but this is the lighthouse. And although the water here may look very inviting, it’s probably best not to swim here - the current is extremely strong.
This beach has the best range of skimming rocks that I’ve ever seen.
So the water all around the island is completely beautiful and sometimes you just want to go and jump into the water.
My favourite beach is actually right near the main port.
You can’t get to that beach from above. You have to swim there. It’s a beautiful private beach.
The beaches near the fishing port are much more accessible.
Long-term resident Yamato Fukui says: "Where the fishing port is now, 35 years ago there used to be one long beautiful beach where us kids would swim — there wasn’t a (school) pool back then."
There are lots of swimming options, but you have to get the times right so the tide isn’t too low.
The passage on the north of Ogi is known as the Ginza of the Sea and it’s said to be busier than Tokyo Port.
And sailors aren’t the only ones passing through the waters. Wild boar actually swim to Ogi and once they arrive they’re not welcomed by people with gardens and they face the danger of being trapped and killed.
There were some locals who wanted to promote Ogi as “cat island” but others are fiercely opposed.
Some tourists come specifically to see and feed the cats, but the feline population is now on the decline after a successful sterilisation program.
The library functions as the island’s cultural hub where new residents are welcomed and events take place.
One of the books on the shelves at the library is the bestselling novel Battle Royale.
On the inside cover is a map of the “fictitious” island named Okishima.
Blogger David Billa says: “But when you read the book it’s actually very clear, the author came here and inspired himself from here to write and describe his island.”
My favourite part of Ogi is the stone wall settlement. Narrow streets cling to sides of the steep hills and you can walk between the old houses and imagine you’ve been transported back to simpler times.
Unfortunately some overly enthusiastic visitors wander into people’s homes to take a closer look. Don’t be one of those people.
There are a lot of wells and although there is now town water, many homes still rely on well water.
You won’t see many cars on Ogijima, you’re more likely to see Onba.
Onba?
Traditionally used to cart babies around, onba are now a symbol of the island and locals use them to cart goods up and down the steep streets.
The last boat back to Takamatsu leaves at 5pm but who am I to stop you pitching a tent on the flat ground near the harbour if you want to stay for the night?

CHAPTERS:
00:00-00:16 David Douglas Stuart introduces Ogijima
00:17-01:04 Ogijima: location, meaning and the basics
01:05- 01:33 Things to see on Ogijima: Ji no ana, Tank Rock and the very instagramable Toyotamahime Shrine steps
01:34-02:00 Ogijima's art (be careful)
02:01-03:08 Beaches and swimming on Ogijima
03:09-03:49 A busy shipping route, wild boars and Ogijima's cats
03:50-04:17 The books of Ogijima
04:18- 04:39 Ogijima's stone wall settlement
04:40-05:02 The wells and 'onba' of Ogijima
05:03-05:12 Ogijima's last Meon ferry back to Takamatsu
05:13-05:39 David Douglas Stuart thanks his supporters


Thank you to Captain Inoue:    / gappegou