Adventurous 90 km hike on the southwest coast of Crete and the White Mountains , using mostly the E4 trail, but also other paths, staying in a tent and B & B / hotel; starting from Paleochora and finishing in Askifou, passing by Sougia, Agia Roumeli, and Anopoli.
October 2025.
DAY 1:
From Paleochora to tent camp
8 km, +300 m
DAY 2:
From tent camp to tent camp at Profitis Elias Sanctuary , passing by Sougia.
15 km, +600 m
DAY 3:
From tent camp at Profitis Elias Sanctuary to tent camp above Agia Roumeli.
10 km, +700 m
DAY 4:
From tent camp above Agia Roumeli to Agia Roumeli. Proper dinner, wash and dry clothes and myself.
4 km, +200 m , -450 m
DAY 5:
From Agia Roumeli to Marmara Beach and then north through Aradena Gorge to Anopoli.
20 km, +1000 m
DAY 6:
From Anopoli back to Aradena Gorge to use the drone above it, since the day before was not so clear and a bit rainy; then I got a lift to the road close to Loutro, visited it, and had lunch there.
I then took the ferry to Chora Sfakion and stayed there for the night.
4 km to the gorge.
DAY 7:
I had to take a bus back to Chania to buy a new pair of boots because the ones I used until then had severely damaged soles, especially the left one.
They were already pretty much used and had some starting breaking points.
I thought I could use them to finish this hike, but that was not the case.
I came back the same day, reached Anopoli , and rented a flat there.
DAY 8:
I left Anopoli, directed to Rousies, with a pickup lift that you can arrange by speaking with the Anopoli taverna's owners, and it costs 70 EUR .
They bring you into the heart of the mountains , covering about 20 km and a 1300 m elevation gain.
Starting from there, I reached the Paches, 2450 m, in the fog and with very strong winds, and then downhill, walking until I reached Mitato Katsiveli, where I slept.
9 km, +600 m
DAY 9:
White Mountains traverse, from Mitato Katsiveli to Askifou: strong winds, rain, and snow, but also sun. The terrain here is almost always rocky and uncomfortable, and the path is not well marked ; you must be careful and check the GPS several times. Tent camp at Niato Plateau.
12 km, +800 m
DAY 10:
From Niato Plateau to Askifou. I had lunch there and then took a bus back to Chania.
6 km , -450 m
Public transportation:
https://www.e-ktel.com/
Water:
I wento on Crete on the first two weeks of October and water is definetly a problem: you need to collect it when reaching towns, cause otherwise, there are only some watertanks from which you can get it, and you must know very well where they are located before to start your trekking.
Weather was overall good and very sunny and i had to drink a lot, expecially on the first 2-3 days on the coastline.
There is a fountain in Lissos.
There are watertanks at Profitis Elias sanctuary, another one 5-6 km before Agia Roumeli (coming from Sougia) and at Rousies.
At mitato katsiveli there is an open one.
Plan very carefully, cause out of these places and of course of towns, you'll not find any other water source at all.
Tent and camp:
This part of E4 do not offer so many good spot where to put your tent down: there is a good one about 8 km starting from Paleochora.
Sougia should be suitable, Agia Roumeli has a camping and there are some nice spots just before to reach the town: after that, not much or not at all.
The white mountains are very rocky, but you are able to find some good flat spots sometimes.
Niato plateau is perfect.
For other questions, feel free to ask.
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