Chevy Cobalt Detailed Fuel Pump Replacement in the Driveway

My car started leaking gas caused by what seems to be a factory defect that I was never notified about where the pump cracks at the stem. This situation might leave you in the driveway if you are lucky, in a non-op condition, but now the tank needs to be removed to swap the pump. This procedure can be done safely in the driveway as demonstrated.


After safely putting the car on drive on stands or jack stands and disconnecting the battery we begin by disconnecting the electrical connections and hose fittings as shown. I'm working alone so a small jack is used to assist in the supporting of the tank in this task as I loosen the tank straps. The jack gently lowers the tank as its still supported on the filler hose. Tube lowered, the filler tube is disconnected. The tank is dropped on the jack further and out of the car.


We can see the crack is evident, no doubt. Ill need to replace the pump. I don't feel good about the reviews about after market pumps so I'm going with the OEM AC Delco MU2220. The tank is completely cleaned before opening with a wash and scrub. I use brass to open the lock so it doesn't spark the lock ring. Cables disconnected the old pump negotiated out, the fuel is recovered from the tank with a siphon. The inside of the tank inspected and cleaned.


I take this time I opt to swap the fuel filter as well. Using tool OEM 25043 to detach the old filter, looking at the contents, it was ready. The replacement will be a Duralast FF4002DL.



With the arrival of the fuel pump I replace the O ring with the same sized one removed. I negotiate the pump back into place and set up the locking ring. Using a brass dowel and hammer I tap it into position its tapped it into place mindful of the H in the position mt the power connector.


I found it easier to remove the heat shield before tank re-installation by removing the two locking tabs. The driver side is installed first over the exhaust as shown, the jack supporting the passenger side. The filler hose should be brought over the cross-member. The heat shield is then negotiated around the exhaust and the tabs locked in. I did this alone, but two people helps. After a good inspection the jack is used to hold the tank up and the straps are reinstalled to hold the tank into position.


This is followed by the re-connection of all electrical and hose fittings, and refilling of at least 3 gallons of gas into the system. It took as expected several attempts to start the car to purge the air out of the system, though after that it ran normal. Going under and around to check for leaks letting it run for several minutes. The next test was to let it sit for several hours and restart to the car to see if it started right up, showing that there was no air introduced into the system.


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