Direct Drive Strength explanation with VRS DFP and iRacing IR18

This video was created to help a user diagnose what is going on with his settings on his VRS wheel.

Basically the settings he had were decent and pretty responsive when the force at the wheel is turned up.

Reference Wheel Forces:
Original Settings: .183:1 (75% VRS 15NM @ 82Nm in iRacing)
Second Laps: .375:1 (75% VRS 15NM @ 40Nm in iRacing)
Third Section: .606:1 (100% VRS 20NM @ 33Nm in iRacing)
Fourth Section .4:1 (100% VRS 20NM @ 50Nm in iRacing)

Laps:
1. - ---
2. - 1:47.469
3. - ---
4. - 1:45.152 (.183:1)
5. - 1:44.620 (.183:1)
6. - ---
7. - 1:51.161 (.606:1 - 6 tooth)
8. - 1:45.056 (.606:1 - 6 tooth)
9. - ---
10. - ---
11. - 1:44.664 (.4:1)
12. - ---
13. - 1:44.763 (.4:1)
14. - 1.44.512 (.4:1)

Notes:

I Probably could have gone faster with the .183:1 Strength but it was so easy to make a mistake that I was afraid to drive it hard. The interesting thing is that probably actually made me pull a faster lap time as I was slower in and faster out of the corners.. In the heat of battle though I would most likely have lost control and or driven the car off the track as staying that careful with the car for that long is a real big task. You can see on the Hairpin that I turn the wheel a reasonable amount more to no benefit when compared with the higher strength.. This happens to some degree on every corner which is where the vagueness occurs as the steering angle exceeds the slip angle of the car.

At .4:1 which is probably where I would race the car (maybe a little more strength) I was pushing a little harder than I should scrubbing speed due to causing the car to oversteer. Most was catchable but you can see I lost it a few times (some caught some not so much). In the end I pulled the fastest lap time of that short session with this strength and my normal settings for the VRS.

.6:1 with the 8 tooth pinion is pretty hard to drive. Real indy Car drivers generally use the 6 tooth pinion on road courses. This lowers at the wheel strength by around 20% just in that set-up change which can make the car drivable at those strength levels but still hard.. I don't know if iRacing allows a change on the pinion for Fixed Races though.

Generally speaking I feel that about .6:1 is pretty realistic to what you might feel in real life as it fits with most cars that I have driven with similar counterparts to iRacing.. As well this has been the feedback I have been given from real drivers I know where I have set up their systems.. That bing said settings I use are not NEARLY as active as many settings out there and are designed to mimic real feel at real strength levels which of course means that you would generally get a workout if you use them as intended. .6:1 is actually fairly close to real indy car as well with the 6 tooth pinion (I'm just not fit enough to drive for a couple hours at that).

Before I am asked :-) My settings for the VRS are as follows:

Damping - 45% - (currently but I am trying to figure out if I like 35 0r 40% better, there isn't too much difference)
Friction - 7%
Inertia - 1%
Smoothing - Legacy 4
Static Force Reduction - 0%
Quiet Slew

Im not sharing the original person asking the questions settings as I don't know where he received them from.. They are more standard style balanced but on the more active side settings.