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Скачать или смотреть Install: Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler Kit w/Barb Inlets on a 2011 Honda Odyssey

  • etrailer
  • 2017-12-15
  • 456
Install: Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler Kit w/Barb Inlets on a 2011 Honda Odyssey
11W x 8-3/4T x 7/8D InchDeraleInstall: Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler Kit w/Barb Inlets on a 2011 Honda OdysseyInstallation of a Transmission Cooler on a 2011 Honda OdysseyMid-Size TruckPlate-Fin CoolerSUVStandard MountTransmission CoolersVanWith 11/32 Inch Hose Barb Inlets
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Описание к видео Install: Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler Kit w/Barb Inlets on a 2011 Honda Odyssey

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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-d...
Male: Today in our 2011 Honda Odyssey, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Derale Series 8000 plate-fin Transmission Cooler Kit, part number D13503. On this Odyssey we've got the transmission cooler installed right behind the fascia here. What this cooler is going to do is help to cool the transmission fluid even more to keep lower operating temperatures for the transmission even when towing or hauling heavy loads up a hill. The reason that you want lower transmission temperatures is because that's going to help to prolong the life of the transmission and those internals that wear down. It's going to take them longer to do that because they don't get as hot. Now, let's show you how to install this cooler. Here's everything that's going to come with the kit. You've got the cooler, then you've got your hose that you'll use to connect to it. Then here you've got a fitting to link your hoses, 4 hose clamps.

Then here you've got the hardware with the rods and clips and pads that you'll need to secure your cooler to your condenser or radiator. We're going to need to remove the front fascia off the vehicle to give ourselves plenty of room to work. We'll need to start up top underneath the hood here, and begin removing these push pin fasteners. You can get under them with a flat-head screwdriver and pry upwards so you get the center out, and then the body of it should pop right out. With all those push pin fasteners removed we can lift up our air dam here, and remove this top cover. Now on each fender well there'll be 2 screws that we'll need to remove using a Philips head screwdriver. Now we'll need to remove the splash guard underneath. It's going to be more of those same style push pin fasteners.

You can use a flat-head screwdriver to work out. They're a little sticky, just work your way around it. Along the front here. There's one more in the same position on the other side. Then there will be some 10 millimeter bolts that we'll need to remove.

We'll remove that splash guard and set it off to the side. Now we'll need to remove this pushpin fastener and 2, 10 millimeter bolts that are on both sides. Now the last step before taking our fascia off is going to be, we need to take these 2 bolts out that are up top. There's one in the same location on either side. We need a 10 millimeter socket in order to take them out. Now, it's a good idea to grab a second set of hands to help you with removing the fascia. You'll need to start at the corner where it meets the fender here, and just begin pulling outwards to release the clips that hold it in place and just work around the front, and you pop it off. Then, as you remove it there's going to be 2 connectors on each side.

You need to squeeze on the tab, pop the connectors off the both of those. Then we can take our fascia and gently set it off to the side. Now before we mount the cooler, it's a good idea to find the transmission cooler lines, and identify which one is the return line, and that's the one that's going to be cooler to the touch after it's been running for a few minutes. On this one I've identified it to be this hose right here. That's the one I'm going to be tapping into in order to hook up the new Derale cooler. Based on the location of the return line that I'll need to use, I'm going to mount my cooler right up in this area, because that's going to give a good airflow behind the grill to where it shouldn't really be blocked, and putting it on the front here is going to give us the best airflow, so it's going to give us the best results and effectiveness of our cooler. Now we'll take the hose that comes with our kit and install it on either barb, and that way it'll make a loop, and then we can cut it to the length that we'll need for each side of our cooler. In order to help with sliding this on if needed, you can put a little bit of transmission fluid onto the end of it to help you slide it on. You want to make sure you get it far enough on to that barb that you'll be able to get it over the little taper there, so you can get a good clamp on it. Now with the AC condenser here in the front, I'm going to take the 10 millimeter bolt out that's on the bracket here that holds it up tight. That way we can pull it out and get a little bit more room to work in order to mount our cooler. Now I'm going to cut out a small section of this trim piece that helps guide the air in over her

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