The Ultimate Guide for Returning Back to Rock Climbing - Evan Ingerson (Season 2, Episode 1)

In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience.

Takeaways
• Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume.
• Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression.
• Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique.
• Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon.

Chapters
00:00 Introduction
01:20 Challenges of Returning to Climbing
02:06 The Art and Science of Returning Climbers to Their Sport
04:23 Key Topics in the Article
05:38 Measuring and Systematizing Return to Climbing
08:49 Progression and Regressions in Total Load
12:22 Considerations for Wall Type and Hold Grip Type
19:09 Shoulder Spheres for Shoulder Injuries
24:51 Using the Gym as a Tool and Climbing with Good Influences
31:13 Final Thoughts and Advice

Evan Ingerson’s Bio
Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries.


FULL PODCAST EPISODE
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🎙Full Podcast Episode: theclimbingdoctor.com/s2-e1-the-ultimate-guide-for-returning-back-to-rock-climbing-evan-ingerson/


FULL ARTICLE
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📝 Full Article Reviewed in Podcast: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/the-ult...


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BOOKS, INJURY PROTOCOLS, AND REHAB TOOLS
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Climb Injury-Free Book: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product...
Self-Help Injury Protocols: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-re...
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INJURY REHAB COURSES
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