HUISHAN ZHANG AUTUMN WINTER 2024 RUNWAY SHOW

16th February 2024, Banqueting House, London
For Autumn/Winter 2024, Huishan Zhang explores and celebrates the conflicting personalities and sartorial signatures of Ingrid Bergman and Anna Magnani, romantic rivals in a legendary cinematic feud.

In 1949, Hollywood darling Bergman and Italian movie star Magnani were plunged into a tumultuous menage a trois when the film director Roberto Rossellini began a love affair with Bergman while still in a relationship with Magnani. He replaced Magnani with Bergman as the lead in Stromboli, his film set on the volcanic island off Sicily. In revenge, Magnani began making Volcano, a new version of the film on a different island.

Inspired by this explosive tale, the collection explores the polarities of Bergman’s icy elegance and
Magnani’s operatic sensuality; the formal and the undone. Looks are repeated and echoed. Oppositions and contrasts become dynamically fused. A palette of black, grey, brown, white and muted metallics is illuminated by flashes of green and magenta, influenced by Renato Guttuso, the Italian neorealist artist of the same era.

The white shirting often worn by Bergman is translated into crisp poplin; Magnani’s signature fur coat is reinterpreted in faux fur. Daywear is enriched with the artisan detail that Huishan Zhang is known for. Sharp tailoring in recycled Japanese wool is softened with ties that wrap the waist or layered with loose rose embroidered tulle panels. A vegan leather trench coat and tailored jacket feature corsetry details. A white tweed story is embellished with braiding. A flock polka dot pleated dress and skirt with asymmetric crinolines recall the full skirted look of post-war Italy. Crystal embroidered denim is individually hand treated to achieve a lightly worn effect and tailored into a cropped bolero and pleated skirt two piece.

For evening, classic 1950’s Hollywood glamour is given edge through innovative fabrication and design detail – a metallic crashed gabardine bow detail dress and bandeau top; boldly silhouetted gowns in neoprene bonded lace and shimmering lurex cloque. Organza dresses are embroidered with vintage-like jewels, some laid over lurex cloque. A heavy satin and tulle gown and tailored skirt suit are lightly layered with embroidered tulle panels. Dresses in sheer block colour spiral lace and three-tone sequin embellished tulle are light and sensual. Hand pleated tulle dresses, structured with crinoline, encompass hours of hand stitching, completing a love letter to the romance of cinema and two of its most passionate and enduring stars.