Trad Climbing Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) | Lover's Leap

Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) is a classic three-pitch route located on the lower buttress of Lover’s Leap. Some people choose to use it as an approach climb for the mega classic "Corrugation Corner". The route has a ton of variety; face climbing, jamming, traversing, and even a few off-width style moves. Most of the route protects well. However, due to the 5.5R runout, it’s recommended to have a good lead head if leading. We linked pitches 2 and 3 with a 70-meter rope in order to finish in two pitches. For more recommendations and beta for this route, check out the “tips” section below.

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CHAPTERS
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(0:00) Introduction
(0:25) Pitch 1 - Climbing
(9:18) Pitch 1 - Anchor / Comments
(10:05) Pitch 2 - Climbing
(25:09) Pitch 3 - Climbing
(28:51) Pitch 3 - Anchor / Comments
(29:13) Closing Comments

HISTORICAL NOTES
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First Ascent: K. Edsburg, M. Edsburg, J. Sublette, 1963

ROUTE INFORMATION
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Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) - https://www.mountainproject.com/route...

LOCAL GUIDES
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Lover's Leap Guides: https://www.loversleap.net/
Instagram: @loversleapguides

GUIDEBOOK
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Supertopo: South Lake Tahoe Rock Climbs by Chris McNamara

MY ANCHOR CHOICES
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Pitch 1: Pre-Equalized (#1,#1,#2) - This anchor could have been more bomber had I used the horizontal crack about 5 feet lower. You can see it at 9:10. I'd use it next time.
Pitch 2: N/A (linked 2&3)
Pitch 3: Monolithic Boulder w/Munter BHK Extension

TIPS / BETA
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There are two main variations for pitch #2 that I’m aware of. Depending on your choice, these are my gear recommendations.

Pitch #2 - 5.6 Variation: Doubles #0.3-#3, (1-2 small offset cams optional)
Opinion: Anything bigger than #3 is dead weight if climbing this variation. You could use a wide piece at the belay, but it's not your only option. This is the variation I climbed in the video.

Pitch #2 - 5.8 Variation: Doubles #0.3-#3, Single #4 & #5, (1-2 small offset cams optional)

I enjoyed climbing this route in two pitches by linking pitches 2 and 3. However, you will need to be thoughtful about your extensions or you may experience rope drag. Knowing this, a good amount of single-length and double-length alpine draws are recommended (7-10). If linking pitches 2 and 3, at least a 60-Meter rope is required.

Also, shortly after turning the arete on P2, you will likely lose communication with your belayer. So, establish an alternative form of communication with your partner beforehand. Cell service was available up there.

Descent: Easy walk off to climbers right