Te Araroa | Part 2: Paihia to Puhoi (km 525) | 2023/24

I continued my journey quite late during the day from Paihia, and therefore hiked in the dark for an hour at the end of the day, after a long road walk. It was quite an experience to see the eyes of different animals glow in the dark.

This section included mostly road walks up to the Helena Forest track, and from there to Whananaki, where the longest footbridge of the southern hemisphere is located.

I got in touch with James at Nikau Bay eco camp to enquire about transportation from Ngunguru and the Hora Hora river crossing. This was the first river crossing on the trail that required careful planning regarding tides. James suggested getting up at 5am to reach the river by 6.30am - a challenge after my late night hikes and late starts ☺️

I loved walking along Ocean Beach and realised beaches were my favourite trail terrain. I was glad about having my sandals so I could walk in the water every now and then.

I had to take the high tide alternative on Ocean Beach which was extremely steep. At first I could not believe that the trail was going the way the orange marker indicated.

Te Whara track towards Whangarei Heads followed, a technical track that can be muddy. When I walked it, the conditions were alright.

I had spoken with two other hikers about getting the water taxi from Reotahi to Ruakaka the next morning.

Ruakaka was another beautiful beach, and seeing the horses run along the beach was amazing.

I had a look around Waipu and the Scottish migration museum there on the way to Waipu cove, and my friend Glenn saved a pitch for me at the fully booked holiday park.

We walked to Mangawhai together and you can watch a short performance by Glenn. He is going to publish poems about his experience of walking Te Araroa. Mangawhai cliff walk was stunning!

I started late from Mangawhai, and arrived at the main river crossing on Pakiri Beach just an hour after high tide. That was the hardest river to cross to that date, although the flow was slow. I arrived at Pakiri holiday park late, and foolishly filmed myself walking through the last river with my phone.

The Dome Forest was next, and I decided to split up the journey and find a spot to wild camp, as the walk from Pakiri to the Dome Cafe would have been a lot for one day.

There were difficult situations in the Dome Forest but overall it went well, and the trail magic was a nice surprise. I enjoyed my wild camp and had made sure to collect water beforehand.

The next day started with heavy rain and I followed Glenn's advice and only walked to trail angels at Totara Bend, a beautiful place.

Then I headed to Puhoi, knowing that kayaking wouldn't be possible due to strong easterly winds and an upcoming cyclone.


music used in this video:
1. One Step Closer by Aakash Gandhi
2. Nature Escape by Infraction (inaudio license)
3. Pathways by Mokkamusic (inaudio license)
4. Sense of Life by Mokkamusic (inaudio license)
5. Power of Moments by Mokkamusic (inaudio license)
6. Leaf by Infraction (inaudio license)
7. July by John Patitucci

time stamps:
0:20 - 1:35 Paihia to The Farm (camping)
1:36 - 2:43 The Farm to Helena Bay (trail angels)
2:43 - 4:12 Helena Bay to Whananaki (holiday park)
4:12 - 5:44 Whananaki to Ngunguru (Nikau Bay eco camp)
5:45 - 7:49 Ngunguru to Ocean Beach (camping)
7:49 - 8:59 Ocean Beach to Whangarei Heads/Reotahi (wild camping)
8:59 - 9:54 Reotahi to Ruakaka (holiday park)
9:54 - 11:17 Ruakaka to Waipu Cove (holiday park)
11:18 - 13:11 Waipu Cove to Mangawhai (Riverside holiday park)
13:15 - 14:40 Mangawhai to Pakiri (holiday park)
14:40 - 16:11 Pakiri to The Dome Forest (wild camping)
16:11 - 17:21 The Dome Forest to Totara Bend (trail angels)
17:21 - 18:07 Totara Bend to Puhoi (camping in Wenderholm)