Alchemist Pump Action Blaster Assembly Guide

Blaster files: https://github.com/Sillybutts/Alchemist

Sellers of hardware and blasters:

OutOfDarts:
Hardware: https://outofdarts.com/products/alche...
Prints: https://outofdarts.com/products/alche...
https://outofdarts.com/products/alche...

SilverFoxIndustries:
Hardware: https://silverfoxindustries.shop/prod...
Prints: https://silverfoxindustries.shop/coll...

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Timestamps at the bottom of the description.
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I will add any frequently asked questions here:

IF YOU HAVE ISSUES WITH THE BLASTER CATCHING: Remove the small spring from under the trigger. It is meant to make the trigger pull as light as possible, but some people's print tolerances mess with that. By removing the extra spring, the only force on the sear will be from the larger extension spring in the grip. If this does not help, move on to the next step.

To fix the sear not catching, even without the extra trigger spring: 1, tension the blaster fully. 2, Make sure the sear is printed at 100% infill 8 walls. 3, Make sure the sear isn't bending because of the spring force on it. 4, Consider printing the optional "backup" plunger rod variant which has more tolerance for wonky printers.

If your bars are slightly misaligned (ie, the pin holes on the two bars don't line up with each other once the blaster is fully assembled), the best way to fix misalignment is: 1, Attach the body bars to the tensioner block. 2, Push the other end of the bars into the endcap until one bar lines up with the pin hole. 3, While keeping the bars in the Endcap, drill out the holes with a 3/16ths inch drill bit. The bit will go through both bars and the print. The drill will get rid of the small misalignments.



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A few small notes:

The takedown pin will deform the backmost holes in the body bars and in the endcap over time. This is to be expected, and is pretty much unavoidable. Just make sure the blaster stays tensioned each time you swap a spring, and don't over tighten the tensioner bolt.
Expect Alchemist to hit ~20 FPS lower than a TC with an equivalent barrel and spring. This is caused by the shorter prime length of Alchemist.
You can also lubricate all the ball bearings to make the blaster even smootherer.

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Timestamps:
Intro: 00:16
Hardware: 00:57
Tensioner Block + Body Bars: 03:18
Plunger: 05:43
Priming Block: 09:23
Ram: 14:27
Detent Block: 18:22
Magwell: 20:36
BarrelShroud Back: 29:50
Grip: 31:53
Lynx Grip: 35:41
Sear + Plunger Tube Area (Part 1): 36:21

Stocks: 37:14
Skeggox: 37:36
SBL1.0/Worker: 42:54
Fixed Stock: 46:13
N-Strike Lug: 47:24

Sear + Plunger Tube Area (Part 2): 48:00
Attach Sear Area to the Grip: 50:32

Final Assembly: Prep: 1:00:34
Final Assembly: Front Shroud + Body Bars: 1:02:6
Final Assembly: Magwell Area + Priming System: 1:03:47
Final Assembly: Back half + plunger: 1:11:33
Final Assembly: Putting the halves together: 1:14:30
Final Assembly: Barrel Installation: 1:19:52
Final Assembly: Optional pump grip: 1:21:44
Final Assembly: Optional SCAR: 1:22:24
All done: 1:22:55