Remote Camping on an Ex-Military Route in COLOMBIA

From the tallest waterfall in Colombia, we area about to enter a unique area of the country, so unique in-fact it’s the largest of it’s kind on earth. The highest waterfall in Colombia, is actually too tall to get into one frame! With the low clouds, even from the drone we’re not able to see the entire cascade.

The Sumapaz national park is the largest Paramo in the world. One that only exists in a few countries. Described as a Neotropical region it is a deeply important ecosystem, providing water to the most densely populated area of the country. Scientists have described these regions as an Evolutionary Hot Spots, meaning they are some of the fastest evolving regions on earth.

This park only became protected in recent decades. During the prior years of Guerrilla warfare, this corridor was used for trafficking weapons, drugs and even people. Much of the park is inaccessible due to antipersonnel mines. It later become occupied by the National military in 2002, and even that has brought controversy. Despite these shadows, this drastic and diverse landscape has us saying yet again, “I can’t believe this is in Colombia”.

To us, this seems wildly foreign and familiar simultaneously. We’ve lost count of how many times we look over at each other and say “I can’t believe this is still Colombia”

It feels as if we’re in the ghost town of a natural area. Between the low clouds and the subdued colours of Sumapaz it would almost be strange to see wild-life here. It feels ghostly.

Normally with our eyes glued to the windshield our minds hope to see {foreign} wildlife, but for some reason this desolate foliage feels more ghostly Our hunt for the Andean bear continues

We have no idea if this route will will exist, but the guesswork of off-grid road-mapping is Colombia has become second nature. It’s going to be one of those we’ll have to drive it to find out situations

Now, our quest to find a safe place to camp has another element. TLC’s advice of don’t go chasing waterfalls would turn out to be very applicable here.

This route has been a textbook adventure. These remote regions teach us a lot, even through the windshield. When we pass through impoverished areas that still have beautiful flowers planted out front, and smiling faces at the door, we feel inspired to continue to find joy with less. The history here is nuanced, but the power of the human spirit to overcome is steadfast. These back road drives may wane on our patience sometimes, but they will always leave us with a story to tell, and that’s our favourite part.


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