From V5 Plateau to first Moonboard V8 in 4 months: My Training Strategy (hint: body tension!)

A focused training plan centered around training Body Tension (climbing almost all Moonboard 2017 V4 Benchmarks WITHOUT CUTTING FEET) that led me to improve: 1) Finger Strength; 2) Lock-off Strength; 3) Core/Lower Body Engagement. All 3 of these aspects helped me send my first V8 in February 2022.

Disclaimer: I'm not a coach. My training routine is created from personal experimentation of what works for me. Warm up accordingly, train carefully, train at your own risk. Most importantly, keep it fun :)

Mentioned Links:
Hooper's Beta Excercise:    • Simple Leg Workout for Climbers  
Eric Karlsson Tension Video:    • Training With Will Anglin - Episode 3...  

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - My first V8
00:46 - Why I Plateaued
02:33 - Improved Weekly Training Plan
03:41 - Healthy Fingers (Key to Gains: Stay Uninjured)
04:44 - Monday Routine (Body Tension Training - MOST IMPORTANT)
11:08 - Wednesday Routine (Lock-off + Core/LowerBody Training)
14:31 - Friday Routine (Limit Bouldering)
15:27 - High-yield Body Tension Tips