Скачать или смотреть OUT OF FASHION E11 | KARLO STEEL | Purple SS 2007 | Martin Margiela | Jane How | Juergen Teller

Jane How's retrospective on Martin Margiela's collections just before his change of direction with Spring Summer 2007.

Martin Margiela had been a major influence on fashion almost from the very start of his career with his Spring Summer 1989 collection. By Spring Summer 1990, the brand had established itself as the harbinger of a new look: narrow shoulder, long length, raw and unfinished. It would continue with that direction for the next five years, which, by then, Martin Margiela had become a style.

Although the brand had produced many revolutionary collections, by Fall Winter 2006, Margiela felt it was time for a change. The brand had become saddled with the look of its early days, a look which had been absorbed into fashion’s vocabulary. The volte-face of Spring Summer 2007, clean lines and graphic shapes, was met with critical uncertainty and hesitancy from buyers. All of that would change with Fall Winter 2007, however...