A brisk five-minute walk from the Naihati railway station is the abode of one of the most opulent idols of goddess Kali anywhere in West Bengal. Standing at a height of 22 feet and venerated for the last 94 years, Naihati’s most famous manifestation of Kali is unanimously hailed by locals as Boro Maa.
Built over 15 days (with the foundation of the idol being laid on Lakshmi Puja) and decked in 12 kilograms of gold and 200 kilograms of silver, Boro Maa draws thousands of devotees each year, with pre-pandemic numbers surging close to 60,000 on the days of Kali Puja and Diwali.
In West Bengal, Kali, the goddess of time and death, is usually softened into the image of a protective mother figure and the bestower of maternal care and benevolence. This is reflected in the domesticated and benign Dakshina or Shyama Kali, who is distinguished by her blue skin. Naihati’s Boro Maa, though, is representative of another type of Kali, the pitch-dark Raksha or Shamshan Kali, symbolising destruction and renewal.
About a century ago, a young man named Bhavesh Chakraborty went to experience Bhanga Rash at Nabadwip accompanied by four friends. The incredible heights of the idols in Nabadwip made for a spectacle none of them could forget. After returning to Naihati, Chakraborty had a dream where Kali, at the time a small deity of the family, instructed him to mould her into a gigantic idol, similar to the ones in Nabadwip.
Soon enough, Naihati’s Boro Maa was conceived.
As Boro Maa’s popularity soared over the years, the puja was opened up to the general public (towards the end of the last century) and stopped remaining confined to the Chakraborty household.
For five days each year, Boro Maa, whose lotus eyes exude a sense of controlled rage, is decorated in grand fashion and worshipped in adherence to the traditions first established by Bhavesh Chakraborty. In keeping with Chakraborty’s wishes, no money is collected from locals to organise the Puja. Whatever sum devotees contribute voluntarily is what the Puja Samiti works with.
Around 4,000 people are fed as part of the Puja annually, with a group of 15 to 20 cooks preparing all the meals. The bhog that is offered to Boro Maa herself always comes from the family of Bhavesh Chakraborty.
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00:00 Introduction
00:19 Reached Naihati (Jadavpur to Naihati by Car)
02:35 Reached Boro Ma mandir at Naihati
03:48 Performing Puja at Boro Ma Mandir
06:03 Ganga Ghat Darshan
06:48 Had lunch at Lokhhi Hotel opposite to Naihati Station
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