The most controversial place I've ever been

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The story of Ani, the ancient capital city of the Armenian Kingdom, and its path from 1001 churches to... almost only one. That now sits inside the modern borders of Turkey.

The ruins at Ani are one thing that people say you have to see if you travel across Turkey to Kars… and I was determined not to miss them.

You can book to stay in the same Kars hotel as me here: https://agoda.tp.st/zCV7sBXD

And buy the same e-Sim that allowed me to stay connected to the internet this entire trip across Turkey (aka made it possible at all) from Airalo here: https://airalo.tp.st/5qe4wdET
(these are referral links, where I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you)

Let me know if you liked this more historical take / "thoughts from places" vibes. When I went there, I was so struck by seeing these ruins in front of the mountains. And when I left and read more about it, I knew I wanted to tell the whole story, and try to do it justice. I hope that I did that.

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