Melankolia (7B+) and Melankolia Sit Start (7C), Mellunmäki

Описание к видео Melankolia (7B+) and Melankolia Sit Start (7C), Mellunmäki

For my 2024 fall project, I took on Melankolia, Finland's first 7B+ boulder problem. The original ascent followed a more direct beta. Using the arete for the feet likely makes it slightly easier.

After sending the stand start in just three sessions, I decided to see how the sit start feels. Although it only adds one extra move, the problem becomes significantly harder.You have to do it controlled to get the left-hand crimp well, and you still have to work your feet in an awkward stance before attempting the crux move.

This was again a memorable process. The stand start took three sessions and the sit start took six more. I love the dark evenings with only LED lights and meeting friends and familiar faces who are working on the same problem.

Music: SYML - I Wanted to Leave

0:00 Busy evening on the first of October
0:27 The stand start
1:35 Projecting the sit start
3:06 The sit start

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