How to get started pruning fruit trees | Growing Fruit and Vegies | Gardening Australia

Winter is a great time to be pruning fruit trees, like apples, because they are dormant and it’s easier to see what is going on. This will keep them in shape and keep them healthy. But before you get your secateurs out, there’s a couple of things you need to do. Subscribe 🔔 http://ab.co/GA-subscribe

Step back and look at your tree:
If you see the three D’s; dead, diseased, or damaged wood, cut them out first. This tree is in pretty good nick, so all I need to do is take out the internal branches that are closing the centre of the tree.

Find a shape:
This apple is in a goblet shape, which is a good shape for a home gardener to prune their trees. It has a main trunk with good scaffold branches that are evenly spaced. On an apple like this, the goblet shape creates good spurs, which is where you get your fruit. Remove any branches that are crossing or rubbing on each other, and any that are growing inwards toward the tree, rather than outward. This will help with the notion of keeping the centre open.

Where to prune:
When pruning a branch that is pencil thickness, take it back by a third, on last season's growth. To find last-season's growth, trace the branch back from the tip and find the line where the bark changes colour. Prune to an outward facing bud. That way the new shoot will grow in the right direction, and keep your tree nice and open. Overall, do not take off more than 20 percent when pruning apple or other fruit trees. If you do, the tree will use more energy regrowing wood and foliage rather than flowers and fruit.

Bigger cuts:
There is not much use in growing a tree if you cannot pick the fruit, so I am taking the overall height of this tree right down. If you want to take off a larger limb, you will need loppers or a saw, and it is a good idea to do an undercut. The final cut should be nearer the trunk, but before making that cut, make another cut a few inches from the trunk on the underside of the branch. This undercut will take on the weight of the branch as it falls and prevent tearing further down the trunk.

That’s it.

Ideally, you would only prune back 20 percent, but this apple was top-heavy and needed to be brought down. I’ve retained a good goblet shape, good picking height, and plenty of fruiting sites for next year's crop. So, step back, look at what you’re working with and start chopping. You’ll be enjoying apples for years to come.

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