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When we have a damaged section of our rope and need to rappel (abseil) off the route, we can either go through a procedure to pass the knot while on a double-strand rappel, or we can switch to a single-strand rappel and avoid the knot pass altogether. But our setups into a single-strand rappel come with tradeoffs. Here are four methods along with some pros and cons for each.


A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.


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Our how-to video on tying the alpine butterfly knot:    • Why and How to Tie the Alpine Butterfly Kn...  

Passing the knot on a traditional, double-strand rappel:    • How to Pass the Knot While on Rappel (Abseil)  


0:00 Intro
0:12 Bumper
0:20 Knot Pass on Rappel?
1:28 Reepschnür Hitch
2:35 Knot Block
3:14 Double Fix
4:21 Equivocation Hitch
6:32 How I Choose a Method
7:10 Outro


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