Calling the Motherlode a "hike" is a colossal mistake. This has nothing to do with hiking, other than the short trail that takes you to the base of Brown's peak. From this point, there is no trail until you traverse all 4 peaks and get down. There is no route to follow. No GPS map. This isn't a hike. In fact, it isn't a scramble either. The Motherlode is a death defying traverse across class 4 & 5 terrain, with many "no fall" zones - where a slip would most likely result in severe injury or in many cases, certain death. It covers over 13 miles (avoiding private property) with 4,286 AEG and 4,388 AEL. I've hiked many more miles in a single day and I've climbed much higher, but I've never done anything this dangerous. Not even close.
To be clear, I WILL NEVER DO THIS AGAIN.
Free soloing class 5 terrain is incredibly terrifying for a novice climber. Thankfully my buddy Troy Dixon, an absolute stud when it comes to mountaineering here in the rugged desert, was leading the way. All I had to do was ignore the fear and follow Troy's lead. Luckily for me, Troy brought along a lightweight (but durable) homemade rescue rope, designed to allow you to rappel off something in a pinch, if you need to get off the mountain in a hurry. In my case, it was a perfect safety line. In fact, without it, I'm not sure I could have made it.
Twice, while clinging to a vertical rock face fully exposed, I froze. The thought of downclimbing was terrifying, while continuing up felt only slightly less terrifying. The idea of pushing the SOS button on my Garmin started to creep into the back of my mind as a viable option if I can't calm myself down enough to start moving safely. Fact is, from a climbing perspective, this is entry level climbing, with expert level consequences. I'm 99% certain that I wouldn't fall, after all, there are plenty of good hand and foot holds. BUT half of that stuff was ready to break off any second. The rock was fractured everywhere (due to the freezing and thawing cycles at that elevation), hand and footholds were constantly breaking off. Even large boulders would occasionally move and break free when we stepped on them. On top of that, lets not forget how physically demanding this is. Part of my fear was simply based on the building fatigue. Do I have enough strength to hold myself? Are my legs going to turn to jelly before I get off this mountain? In some areas, almost nothing could be trusted without touching and and stomping on it to ensure it was stable. Even in very low rated 5.1 and 5.2 walls, which can easily be climbed with no fear of falling, become absolutley terrifying when you have nothing to save you in case of a fall. Add that to the fatigue, and it was simply terrifying. No other way to put it.
In those situations where it just seems too risky to keep climbing, with no protection, Troy came through to save the day. After free soloing a wall, he lowered his "rescue" rope down to give me a little support (and confidence). As soon as I feel the loop snug up around my chest, under my armpits, while Troy riggs up some sort of friction belay around his body... I immediately feel a huge sigh of relief. I know I'm not going to fall here. If I do, I'm not going to die. The panic subsides and I scoot up the wall easily without missing a step. It's amazing how your brain reacts when the chance of death is an actual possibility and as soon as that possibility is removed, the anxiety goes away - almost instantly. Twice that rope gave me the confidence I needed to soldier on and get past the fear of climbing vertically on this "hike". Unfortunately, due to the poor GoPro performance in cold temps, much of that footage was lost. What remains is certainly enough to get the point across.
HUGE thanks to Troy Dixon @walkingwithawookie1097 for guiding me up. Not a chance in hell I'd do this without his experience leading the way. The route finding required was insane. Without his prior failed attempts, finding the best direct route on your first try is impossible. There would have been no chance that we could have made it off those mountains before dark if we didn't take the most direct route. Let me tell you, downclimbing and working your way off Amethyst without trespassing in the dark, would make an already dangerous situation darn near impossible.
Basically, I'm happy to be alive!
Hope you enjoy!
MUSIC:
Love and Rockets - "So Alive"
DRONE FOOTAGE:
@shadoutdoors
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