How to Replace Mazda 3 Rear Shocks in Under 5 Minutes

Описание к видео How to Replace Mazda 3 Rear Shocks in Under 5 Minutes

How to Replace Mazda 3 Rear Shocks in Under 5 Minutes. For a 2012 Mazda 3 i 2.0 VIN: G. At 98,000 miles, the shocks were a bit rusted and worn, so I replaced them.

Torques:
17 mm Lower Shock Bolt: 59-77 ft-lb (Shop Manual)
13 mm Shock Lock Nut: 20 ft-lb (Not in manual, this was what I used, not sure what the true value is. Must be well-seated for functionality, but it is small so do not want to over-torque)
12 mm Shock Upper Mount Nuts: 17-20 ft-lb (Shop Manual)

Biggest lessons I learned on this job were:
1) have a ratcheting 13mm for the lock nut if possible
2) use a table vise to anti-rotate the shock when removing/tightening the 13mm, and
3) if possible, just use an impact for loosening suspension hardware, provided the hardware isn't too rusted to the point of cracking. There are so many threads that take a while, and for the lock nut, the impact would do the job arguably without a vise.
4) Terrible quality of Monroe OESpectrum. Two yeas later, I do not recommend. I have already replaced these a second time, using their Lifetime Warranty. First interval was 12,000 miles. Second interval was 1/2020 - 5/2020: barely a few thousand miles. I triple-checked all installation - and either it is something else in my suspension, or poor quality in OE. The next time (5/2020) was with KYB's. Time will tell.

Some not all indicators of wear; mileage may not be the best factor (Mazda said I should replace these at 50,000 but they were fine then):
-Rust
-Bottoming out, bouncy, or floating feeling going over bumps. The spring/mass/damper tuning of the shocks should ideally be critically damped, that is not continue bouncing after a bump.
-Leakage
-Damage to shock
My shocks weren't completely toasted; different times work for different people.

Amazon Affiliate Links:

Parts:

MONROE 5683 Rear Shock https://amzn.to/2xICheM

Tools:

12 mm deep socket (Shock upper mount nuts) https://amzn.to/2xBgia8
13 mm box (Shock Lock Nut, Ratcheting) https://amzn.to/2QQLIRT
17 mm socket (Lower shock bolt) https://amzn.to/2DqlbYY
21 mm socket (Lug nuts and crankshaft) https://amzn.to/2wakL5q
Pliers (To anti-rotate Lock Nut) https://amzn.to/2Ifcwd2
Torque Wrench https://amzn.to/2jriSrL
6" Socket Wrench https://amzn.to/2JQdjhK
Jack https://amzn.to/2HM2xNc
Jack Stands https://amzn.to/2w7GVFC
Cross (Tire Iron) https://amzn.to/2zpTQ5n
Breaker Bar https://amzn.to/2DreNRs
Extenders https://amzn.to/2xFnrp2
Vise Grip https://amzn.to/2DAPBrR

00:00 Overview
00:07 Parts used
00:15 Jack, Wheel Removal
00:30 Strut Condition
00:43 17mm Lower Bolt Removal
01:04 Release Lower End
01:10 Top 12mm Nut & Removal
01:38 Top 13mm Lock Nut Removal
02:33 Mount Removal
02:45 New Strut Install to Mount
03:25 New Strut Install to Car
03:50 17mm Lower Bolt Install


Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Oliver Porter, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Oliver Porter assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Oliver Porter, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Oliver Porter.

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