Ep 4: Leaving the Most Beautiful Rifugio on the Tour du Mont Blanc

Team Gianni leaves the gorgeous Rifugio Elizabetta and deals with 4,000 feet of brutal downhill to Courmayeur where gelato and pizza are enjoyed...

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TMB DAY 4 Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

Rifugio Elisabetta was the coolest so far. Perched on a hilltop and overlooking a freakishly pretty valley. Great Italian communal dinner. Met some cool folks— a couple from Portugal, a young Canadian dude trying to do it solo in 7 days (damn!), and a young girl from Czech Republic doing it solo. Well, they were doing it solo until they met each other. Now we assume they’re just doing it. While the Rifugio is gorgeous - the sleeping arrangements were not. The dormitory was basically three huge planks stacked on top of each other with mattresses thrown over them. You sleep side by side with strangers. Like you’ve been stocked on a giant grocery shelf. Two toilets for probably 40 people and you could pay 2 euro for a hot shower to get a freezing cold shower. But it was still awesome. I don’t see how any of these huts get all the supplies they need at all. It’s impressive. And the people who work there are an interesting breed. I like them. I feel like I could be one of them. I’m spiffing up my resume to apply.
Had some bread and cheese and coffee for breakfast and started with a few miles of flat down the valley that was a warm up we really needed. Then up we went. Only about 2,500 feet and it’s still really difficult but our bodies are getting used to it. “Okay- I’m going to be in severe pain for the next 7 or 8 hours. Got it. Cool.” It was pretty darn hot and we took to dipping our hats in the freezing cold streams for some ice therapy. Along the way we looked across the valley at the rock face and thought we saw a building. But that would be impossible. We found out later that it’s not impossible. It’s called rifugio monzino and the only way to get there is to climb. People are insane. Google it if you get a chance.
Finally made it to Rifugio Maison Vielle which sits at the top of a massive ski resort on Mont Bionco and stopped for a cappuccino and a snack. Friendly people and a really nice spot. We could see our destination, Courmayeur, far away in the valley below.
Our next job was to get down the mountain. We’d been dreaming about taking the cable car down all day, but unfortunately it doesn’t start running until July 1. We contemplated just sitting there until then but a real hotel with a private bathroom and a hot shower was too strong a pull. We started out on a dirt access road but that soon turned off to a very narrow and very steep trail. My right knee decided that was a good time to start pressing the severe pain buttons. I slowed us down considerably for a couple of miles. We spent about an hour talking about what flavor gelato we were going to get. We also spend time talking about what Marcella would like and wouldn’t like on this trip and are so bummed she isn’t with us. Then the trail skirted the access road again and we decided to take that the rest of the way. It was a good choice. A narrow trail gives you zero options- you just have to go where it goes. The road was a bit easier and a little less painful. The ascents are hellish but at least they don’t murder your knees like the descents do.
Made it to town and thought we were home free but as usual we were wrong and had another 45 minutes of heat to get to the hotel where we showered like we’ve never showered before, had a rest, and found a great little restaurant for pizza and libations. Our new friends all happened to be there. Canadian and Czech girl had picked up another friend who was having the same knee issues I was having. Jen bought them a round of limoncello’s because when we were in our early twenties we would have appreciated a round of limoncello’s.
Courmayeur is a beautiful little Italian ski village. I don’t know why - but I keep thinking I’m going to see Peter Sellers having a drink with David Niven somewhere. Just has that Peter Sellers/David Niven kind of vibe. If I see them I’m going to ask them to help me spiff up my Rifugio resume. Hijinks will surely ensue. I’m too tired for a caper, but I’m always up for some hijinks.

We used Happy Tracks to help us book lodging. You tell them how many days you have and they’ll give you the best options. They give you lots of planning advice and are there if you need support during your hike. Highly recommend. It’s worth the money. They do much more than just book lodging too - luggage transfers, guided tours, and more…

Grant
Happy Tracks
https://happytracks.ch/
[email protected]
Tell him Angelo Gianni sent you!