Hands On with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Collection

In 2020, we all gushed over the Master Control series that Jaeger-LeCoultre had given a facelift. They were clean, endearing and simple in a way that could never come close to being boring. In 2021, we’re treated to an expansion of another old favourite in the Master Ultra Thin Moon, with that first black dial version being joined by a crisp silver sunburst, glorious champagne, and an intoxicating petrol blue.

The case

Of course, the watch wouldn’t get its Ultra Thin moniker without the specs to back it up, and its 9.3mm thickness is definitely svelte for an automatic moon-phase watch, but in a world of Piaget and Bulgari creating crazy thin watches, it might take a bit more to impress us these days. Thankfully, the appearance of the watch is even slimmer on-wrist than the callipers may suggest though, with the mid-case section having a flat profile that tricks the eye into skipping over the slightly-protruding caseback. The cases, with their stately vintage style, are a dream in regards to dimensions. The diameter is 39mm, which can fit on most wrists with ease, and the slim bezel allows the dial to have much greater presence than its true size suggests. The measurement from lug to lug is under 46mm, which just adds to the versatility of potential wearers.

The dial

JLC has a way of perfecting details without overthinking them, and the execution feels natural. The minute markers are clear yet unobtrusive dots in between the rhodium-plated applied shark-tooth indices, and the slender dauphine hands just graze their respective hour and minute marker targets. There’s only minimal dial text to not distract from the subtly sunburst dials, with the applied logo above a printed one to balance out the pointer date ring, moon-phase cutout, and automatique text located above the 6 o’clock index that is shrunken and not truncated.

The blue and silver dials are paired with stainless-steel cases, elevating their cool tones and honing in on that style of dress watch that can be worn alongside almost any outfit. The versatility can’t be overstated, looking as much at home under a French cuff as with jeans and a t-shirt. The pink gold version is more on the flashy side, with the blue enamel moon-phase disk matching the heat-blued seconds hand as a sumptuous contrast to the all-gold theme. The creamy tone of the champagne dial is just light enough to make the gold hands and indices quickly legible, while the brown alligator strap helps the watch radiate its warmth in colour.

The movement

Through the display caseback, courtesy of sapphire crystal, you can see the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 925AA, which is as tastefully decorated as it is technically impressive. A 70-hour power reserve is delivered at the Swiss luxury standard 28,800 vibrations per hour, negating the need for frequency trickery even though it just has the one mainspring barrel. The gold automatic winding rotor is skeletonised to bear the JLC logo, and the entire movement is only 4.9mm tall. Not only does it pack in the titular moon phase complication, but also a pointer date.

The strap

The blue, silver, and black models all arrive on black alligator leather straps, with quick-release spring bars that are also curved to follow the contours of the watch head. If you want some variety, Jaeger-LeCoultre also offer a smooth black calfskin, as well as blue or brown alligator. The brown strap comes as default on the pink gold reference, as it matches the warmth of the watch, but black would also look extremely dapper with the right outfit to match.

The verdict

If you ask people what their grail watch is, the odds are quite high that Jaeger-LeCoultre will be a brand that comes up often. Whether that’s due to their superb movements or their timeless designs, they’re also extremely well priced for the level of watchmaking on show. The stainless-steel references are $14,900AUD, presenting quite an attractive offer for what could easily be many people’s dream watch, and at $29,800AUD the pink gold model is certainly a step up the luxury tier, but the heart always needs something to yearn for.

For more information on these pieces go to Jaeger-LeCoultre or book an appointment at their Virtual Boutique here.

Made in partnership with Jaeger-LeCoultre. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.

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