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Ocean waves are produced by the wind. The faster the wind, the longer the wind blows, and the bigger the area over which the wind blows, the bigger the waves. In designing ships or offshore structures we wish to know the biggest waves produced by a given wind speed. Suppose the wind blows at 20m/s for many days over a large area of the North Atlantic. What will be the spectrum of ocean waves at the downwind side of the area?

It is important to realise that the spectra presented in the section are attempts to describe the ocean wave spectra in very special conditions, namely the conditions after a wind with constant velocity has been blowing for a long time. A typical ocean wave spectrum wil be much more complicated and variable. For example it may have two peaks, one from distance swell and the other generated by the local wind.