Innovate LC2 Wideband o2 sensor install with ECMlink v3

Описание к видео Innovate LC2 Wideband o2 sensor install with ECMlink v3

Want to turn your ECMlink v3 setup into a rolling dyno? Then install a wideband gauge and accurately log your air fuel ratios. A WideBand Air/Fuel meter like what's used on a dynomometer can be installed in your exhaust so that you can monitor and maximize the performance of your fuel tuning everywhere you drive. It's the most effective means of doing this whether your airflow metering is configured with the factory barometric MAF, GM MAF, VPC or Speed Density.

On a 4g63 turbo this installation is extremely easy to do because you don't have to weld anything. You can use the front factory bung. If you're using ECMlink, you can feed the wideband o2 signal through one of the 5V inputs and use the same engine management platform to log wideband data AND simulate the narrowband signal, eliminating the factory o2 sensor. It's more beneficial to have it, but you don't have to if you're using ECMlink.

If you're installing an LC-1 or LC-2 wideband gauge with your ECMlink hardware, EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR ECU CONNECTIONS IS IN THE ECMtuning Wiki LOCATED HERE:
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/lc2inst...

I bought my LC-2 setup from ECMtuning. There is an immense amount of valuable information available for free to the public regarding the DSM and EVO I-III ECU's on their website. Consult your factory service manual for wiring diagrams, and/or use the common-sense methods I demonstrated here (the illumination circuit demonstration), and linked in this description.

If you want to know more about that relay controlled key-on-hot circuit I pulled power from, watch my Autometer Triple Gauge Pod install video HERE:    • Hyundai Assembly 9 - Airflow, Fluids,...  

I wouldn't be honest if I didn't include telling you one thing I did differently in real life than in the video. My car had a damaged engine wiring harness with a short-to-power, bridging a live circuit on the o2 signal wire. I had to cut the factory o2 wire free from the ECU pin and insulate the factory heater circuit so that it didn't burn up. I didn't need to show you that on camera because its a problem unique to my [car] that doesn't apply to any other car with a healthy o2 circuit. The method I demonstrated makes it easy to remove your work and return the car to stock by simply un-plugging the wideband controller and gauge, and re-installing a factory o2 sensor. It just requires that you had a healthy o2 circuit to start with. I did not.

My o2 sensor didn't work because of a damaged harness, not a dead sensor. The sensor's actually good. Lesson learned. Abilities gained. Now I have a simple and effective wideband setup. I'm not even mad.

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