Скачать или смотреть The Rise & Fall of an HHO Generator Project

In 2011 I attempted to build a working HHO generator and install it in one or more vehicles, in order to determine if it could result in fuel savings.

The design I settled on was a so-called "dry cell" which is really a misnomer in the sense that they still use an electrolyte to achieve the hydrolysis (splitting of H20 into a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, known as "Brown's Gas" or HHO). What is different with the "dry cells" is that instead of having the electrical plates completely immersed in a single container of electrolyte, they "contain" the electrolyte within spaces between the plates, as a car battery contains it's acid electrolyte within a sealed volume.

I used stainless steel bowls cupped together and separated at the ends by rubber seals, with only one end requiring a polypropylene cap with brass spiggots for elecrolyte IN (bottom) and gas OUT (top). There is a second polypropylene RING fitting over the rear bowl and receiving the 8 bolts used to tighten the chambers together. Note that the tightening bolts are pressed through rubber sleeves (sections of fuel line) which insulate them electrically from the stainless steel bowls.

With the exception of the outer end bowl, all the stainless steel bowls needed one hole (1/4") drilled at the "top" to allow the gas to pass freely toward the output spiggot, and a second hole (1/8") drilled at the "bottom" to allow the electrolyte to circulate between cells.
Brass fittings: brass fitting 1/4hose x 1/4NPTM
Brass fitting holes: pre-threaded with Tap NPT 1/4-18 (B-3406493)

You see in the photos that I started with 11 bowls for 5 cells on either side of a central bowl that served as the anode (positive terminal). This proved to be too many cells because the voltage across each cell was insufficient. Final design ended up with 7 bowls.

The current supply was routed through a heavy duty relay [snowmobile type: 12V DC Relay (B-8262800)] whose purpose was to prevent the HHO unit from receiving current EXCEPT when the engine was actually running. This is also important, because it prevents gas from being generated under the hood except when the engine can accept it, and also prevents the battery from being drained when the alternator is not running. In order to make the relay do this, you have to feed a trigger wire from the fuel injection relay or similar source.

My HHO device worked well at first, generating over a liter per minute, and the effect of the gas in the engine was noticeable as a smoothing of the running and in particular an engine cleaning effect. However, after several months of trials in both a small pickup (1991 Chevy S10, throttle body fuel injection) and a 1989 Corolla (carburator engine), it was clear that no significant fuel savings were resulting. Also over time the gas generation dropped significantly. After 6 months of steady operation in the two vehicles I removed the device for cleaning and discovered that the bowls had actually corroded creating swiss-cheese like holes, so the design was not okay for long-term use.

My personal feeling is that although Browns Gas has potential as a fuel, home made hydrolyzers will generally not result in significant fuel savings in standard vehicles. And if you decide to experiment proceed with caution regarding the proper use of a BUBBLER UNIT to separate the device from possible backfires from the engine, as well as proper current control via a relay limiting operation in conjuction with engine running as described.

The 4 videos accompanying this slide show illustrate the progress of my HHO experiment.