Скачать или смотреть Hakka's Dongjiang Cuisine...A Branch So Important It Sometimes Represents Hakka Cuisine Itself

Keywords: Hakka cuisine, Dongjiang cuisine, Dong River, Huizhou, Meizhou, salt-baked chicken, stuffed tofu, yong tau foo

As I mentioned in the video, "yanjuji" salt-baked chicken is one of the emblems of Hakka cuisine, and many books have written about its "traditional" method. One of these methods emphasizes such details:
犹如视频里提到，盐焗鸡是客家菜的名片之一，很多饮食文化著作都有讲过"传统"制作方法。其中一种方法的关键点如下：

1) Whether fuel is charcoal, wood or otherwise, the key is low heat cuz salt would blacken too easily when overheated;
炭火也好柴火也罢，重要的是小火，不然盐容易炒黑；

2) A pot of sea salt can be used twice at most, otherwise accumulation of chicken fat that seeped out would stink up the salt;
一锅海盐顶多用两次，因为渗出的鸡油会让盐发臭；

3) Bigger isn't better. Large chickens are hard to thoroughly flavor. Farm-raised chicken is not preferred because the less muscular flesh can't withstand hours of high-temperature salt-baking;
大不等于好。太大的鸡反而不容易入味。饲养的鸡也不理想，由于肌肉不够结实，无法承受长时间的高温盐焗；

4) After the baking process, leave the chicken in the salt for another few hours. If retrieved right away, moisture would evaporate too rapidly due to the high internal temperature, and the additional time also helps the meat take up more flavors;
焗完，不能立刻取出，因为鸡内高温会导致水分快速蒸发，况且多埋在盐里有利于鸡肉入味；

5) How do you tell if the chicken was cooked entirely by salt-baking? If it comes wrapped in parchment (actually layers of different papers), the bottom layer should be difficult to peel off because so much fat has exuded, sort of dissolving the paper, which should be sticking to the skin. On the other hand, if the wrap can be removed easily, it's likely that a pre-cooked chicken was used.
怎么判断盐焗的是生鸡? 如果上桌时还裹着草纸，这纸应该很难撕掉，也无法整片撕下，因为大量鸡油渗出，使得纸张近乎融化。相反。倘若焗了半熟的鸡，拆封过程应该比较干净利落。

Whilst salt-baked chicken is a well-known Hakka dish, the above are some nuances at one shop in Meizhou, but details and tricks could differ at other restaurants in other areas, such as this video's Gaoji in Huizhou.
尽管盐焗鸡是客家名馔，上述仅仅是梅州某一店家的做法，其他地区的其他餐厅，譬如这视频里的惠州高记，可能在细节上有着不同的要求。

Name: 高记惠州风味楼
Add.: 滨江东路37号 (广东惠州 Huizhou, Guangdong)
Tel.: 0751-2259308
Cost (this meal): RMB 80/p
Price (online info): RMB 81/p