Fugly Husqvarna 350 (Huztl 350) vs. Stock 350 Part 3, Debug an Aftermarket Husqvarna Cylinder!

Описание к видео Fugly Husqvarna 350 (Huztl 350) vs. Stock 350 Part 3, Debug an Aftermarket Husqvarna Cylinder!

At this point? I wouldn't either recommend doing this build or buying an aftermarket cylinder. I would just take a stock cylinder, use a flat top piston, build it without a base gasket, and do the 5/8 tube muffler and for that little no risk effort get a snappier saw.

So why leave the video up? Because it points out three things, one that's interesting. ONE, The stock cylinder in this case is way better than AM. TWO the ports can be pretty far off and you still have a running saw.... a subject that's interesting. THREE Yet again some real simple mods to a STOCK saw can generate tangible results without a lot of effort or sophisticated tooling. THE build I'm talking about is the Stock 350 with OEM cylinder, flat top piston, Black Ignition, No base gasket (Three Bond 1194) build, and 5/8 tube muffler mod.

BUT since I started....

Basically still a work in process. Cylinder still roughed out in need of finish work. BUT I got side tracked and found the weak link in the chain of that aftermarket cylinder that has to be addressed before moving forward. As delivered, the transfer ports are not symmetric side to side. I didn't help by roughing out the vertical area's and removing the divider on the caps! But the fact is the sections entering the cylinder / combustion chamber was challenged from the get go. You can see that even in the first video on this Fugly 350 series.

As with all motors, the entire system has to work in concert....and the weak link defines the peak horse power produced & running qualities. Those transfers were and still are that weak link. I roughed out a little more trying to even up where they enter the cylinder with rather positive results.

Tells me where I was planning to take this build is still a valid concept. Need to finish / polish the transfers & make them more symmetric from top to bottom. THEN I can break out the degree wheel, see what I have relative to where I had planned to go.... and then decide if its worth the effort vs. just doing the planned build on an OEM cylinder that is WAY further along..

This right now is about 3/4 of where I planned to go with this AM cylinder. Still plan too "finish" the work I have right now. Basically make things both symmetric and smooth with a nice surface finish.

Plan to put a "Black" Ignition on it so I can get the RPM's the planned build will want to get to.

Even before I do any of that, do I even want to go further with this cylinder or go map the build onto an OEM cylinder?..... Don't know as I haven't decided do I just stop here or complete the project.

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