Every once in a while something profound happens in our lives that causes us to reflect on what we truly value. If we could be gone at any minute, what do we want to ensure we did while we were here? A few years ago this question was easily answered with, “climb El Cap, of course!”
As a climber, I think we all think that we will someday climb El Capitan. But thinking is not what gets you up El Capitan. Doing is what gets you up. I’ve been doing a lot of thinking lately and I think I need to start doing what it takes to get me up this thing. But is that something I can just do? I think so.
I’m a climber, climbers can climb The Capitan, right? My buddy Cody did it, maybe he will drag me up? Well the wise Ol’ Cody told me that a man must quest up The Capitan for the first time with a partner who’s also climbing it for the first time. The adventure is slowly getting drained from the mountain, but this rule ensures some purity… and chaos.
I can’t climb 5.14 and I can’t aid a ladder, so the plan was to free-as-can-be climb the Free Rider, pitch by pitch, year by year. I started with the Freeblast back in April 2024. It was great! Free as can be-ish. I returned home with plans to hopefully make it to the Alcove on the next trip.
In scouting for partners, John was the obvious choice. My desert dualitude dude, crack connoisseur, Valley virgin, and the main character of this channel was more than up to the task. I said, “hopefully we can make it past the Ear and I think we can rap from there.” He looked at me with those hungry and blind eyes and said, “brother, we’re making it to the top!”
With a year to train we enjoyed our normal lives until this April when the reality of our trip hit us. Four weeks to prepare, and John just fractured his wrist. “Will you be healed by then?” “Yes.” John said as he willed his cartilage to grow.
From here, we assembled the village. The Oklahoma climbers are few but mighty. We were able to pool resources and beta from a dozen people and it was truly inspiring to see everyone come together to support such an underprepared venture.
Some key individuals that supported our trip include: Cody Greenhaw, Drew Nevius, Miles Johnson, Garrett Swank, Tristain Bradford, and a glorious group of golden era Oklahoma granite grippers. (Along with many others.) Thank you all very much. Climbing really is a team sport.
Quick side note, we even got lent a hand stitched haul bag by the Duane Raleigh that was signed by a whole team of early Okie ascentionists, including none other than Doug Robinson! Unfortunately my anti epic ethic deemed it non seaworthy.
Since we’re doing side notes, I don’t think I mentioned in the video but I celebrated my birthday by waking up on El Cap Spire. Can’t get that off AirBnB! Of course leading the Sewer that evening gave me the late 20s reality check I needed.
We also owe a special thank you to the people we met en route. Benzi, Jacobpo, and even Jordan Canon himself were more than hospitable despite us bumbling around on their high stakes days. My biggest fear in going for this objective was throwing off someone’s free ascent. But everyone welcomed us with open arms and heck maybe we even reciprocated a bit of the moral boost they gave us.
Personally I have to be grateful for my climbing partner John. How many people crater sideways off a boulder - only to catch themselves with the far side of their wrist and climb El Cap weeks later? It felt like I was dying and watching a highlight reel of our times together climbing up there. Like our first day out on the Lichen Wall to brutalizing ourselves at Horseshoe Hell. Everything lead to this moment. I’m thankful and proud to have been able to share the cord with ya.
Most of all, we owe Jon Frank the most gratitude we can conjure. From shuttling us around the great state of California, to providing live giving provisions throughout, Jon you truly are the best. Thank you so much, you deserve all the credit.
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