Kondona Initiation Ceremony, Northern Togo

The kondona initiation ceremony for young men of the Kabiye ethnicity aged 22-26, filmed in the village of Farende in the Kara region of northern Togo. Farende is known as the cradle of Kabiye tradition, because unlike in other places in Togo where the traditional ceremonies and practices are starting or continuing to fade, there, tradition remains strong. Through this dancing ceremony, participants are recognized as men rather than boys. We followed the men as they had themselves adorned in animal skins, clanking shells, and a heavy headdress made of tall cattle horns that were covered in chicken feathers and at the center of which was featured a stuffed animal, a doll, or an inflated toy. That's the modern touch, I was told—years ago, there was no toy placed in the headdress, but now it's become the fashion. For the dancing rite, the men are supposed to prove their strength, endurance, and prowess by dancing longer, harder, and better than their peers. Also, by choosing the most difficult routes up and down the small mountains/large hills of their village's terrain as they move from house to house, and finally, to the chief's residence. Carla is a writer and multidisciplinary artist who served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Northern Togo from 2009 to 2011. www.carlaseidl.com