How to multi pitch rappel using a pre-rig rappelling system in combination with a quad anchor

Chillino guide Fabi and student Stephan demonstrate the entire process of multi pitch rappelling from finishing the last pitch to rappelling down two-pitches/two-times.

The technique of using a pre-rigged rappelling system has the advantage of setting up the entire rappel system (for each climber/rappeller) in advance before the first rappeller leaves each anchor. This allows for a mutual system check as a team where everybody is present vs. each climber individually transitioning from anchor to rappelling.

Transitioning from a self-equalizing anchor to a pre-rigged system is also less gear intense since it only requires the use of one (quad/self-equalizing) anchor that the first rappeller “bumps” down to each new rappel station/anchor.

Using a self-equalizing anchor also has the advantage that the master point equalizes automatically to a variety of different anchor bolt positions. Even though, most rappel anchors tend to be horizontally aligned and no further apart than 45cm/18 inches, there is always a slight difference in bolt positions for each anchor (further apart horizontally and vertically). A self-equalizing anchor, such as the “quad”, has the characteristics to compensate for these differences and create an equalized master point.

Using a pre-rigged system in combination with a self-equalizing anchor (quad) also avoids inconvenient clipping into tight rappel rings/chains or hangers that are crowded with multiple carabiners at chains and hangers.

For pre-rigged rappelling we use an extension (PAS) to attach our rappel device to the harness. In most cases, the added distance between harness and rappel device creates enough room to not be pulled on by movement that is caused by the rappelling climber. If using a friction hitch back-up (as the second, 3rd or 4th rappeller), make sure to attach it to the brake strands after the tension has been taken off the rappel line/s – in order to not be inconveniently pulled by your friction hitch. Or ask your partner for a fireman’s backup (as demonstrated in the video).

The handling of an extended rappel device (with PAS) also tends to be more comfortable as it allows rappellers to hold their hands on the brake strands right in front of the chest (vs. lower than waist when not extnded). Also, an extended rappel device lowers the risk of getting “stuff” (such as, hair,..) stucked in the rappel device.