Suit Lingo & Terminology Explained II - Gentleman's Gazette

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Shoulder terminology

Sleeve head
So why is a sleeve head so important? Basically, the way you fold fabrics whether you add padding or not really influences the shape and the look of the sleeve and how it rolls on the sleeve head. If you think about it, you have one layer of fabric that comes from the shoulder and one layer of fabric that comes from the sleeve. Now the ends of the fabric where it's sewn together can either be folded both towards the shoulder which is called spalla camicia or they can be both folded down which creates usually an effect slightly like a pagoda shoulder where it comes up or you can fold the sleeve end to the sleeve side at a shoulder one to the shoulder side which is more traditional and adventurous look.

Structured shoulder
It typically means that there is some form of padding, it's a little stiffer, and it helps the fabric to drape nicely. It's typically something you find in military tailoring where you want something to look authoritative and impressive.

Pagoda shoulder
Pagoda shoulder uses padding in a way to create a slightly concave effect where it goes down on your collar and then back up on the sleeve head.

Soft shoulder or a natural shoulder
They talk about a shoulder construction without padding that feels very comfortable and normal.

Mappina
If you see little puckering along the sleeve head, Italians sometimes call it mappina. For Italians, it's a hallmark of a handwork.

Jacket Pockets
Barchetta
This means little boat, it refers to the outside chest pocket on your jacket that is cut in a shape that resembles a small boat.

Patch Pockets
This refers to pockets that are literally patched on to the outside of the jacket.

Flap pockets
They are a slit that is cut and then a flap that is attached to it. The flap prevents things falling out of your pockets but it's also a stylistic choice.

Jetted Pocket
A jetted pocket is more formal than a flap pocket which is more formal than a patch pocket.

Ticket Pocket
This is placed above a pocket usually on the right side but if you have something custom-made you can also have it done on the left side.

Drape
In a very basic level, drape describes how fabric flows along your body because ultimately, it's woven two-dimensionally but your suit is 3-dimensional, however, if the term drape is mentioned in terms of suits, it usually refers to an excess amount of fabric over the chest or your back blades which create the visual appearance of broader chests.

Darts
It usually refers to seams in the front of your jacket. It can also be in the back of your jacket but what it typically does is to remove fabric to create a more desired silhouette.

Waist suppression
This is related to darts and it refers again to the hourglass shape.

Drop
What it refers to is the difference between a chest measurement and your waist measurement.

Quarters
This refers to the front pocket flaps of your jacket.

Skirt
It's basically the bottom half of your jacket all the way around. it contains the quarters in the front but also the back.

Vents
Basically, vents are the slits that you can find on the back part of the skirt.
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