The Great Himalayan Exploration : Documenting The Art of Making Khesung | Episode 4
Khesung
Chi, tongba, or chhaang — home-brewed alcoholic beverages are central to the lives of every community in Sikkim, where important festivals and all the significant milestones in life, like births, marriages, and funerals, are celebrated with a toast. To prepare these all-important brews, known as jnards, most households will partake in fermenting millet, sweet potato, rhododendron flower petals, wheat, bajra, or rice with a source of mould,
yeast or bacteria — locally known as khesung by the Limbus; the Lepchas call it thamik, Nepalis call it murcha and Bhutias call it phab.
Essentially a starter culture used to ferment a variety of substrates, these pale white-coloured cakes are commonly bought from the markets — or even ordered online. While the brewing of chhaang is commonplace in Sikkim, the making of khesung remains a specialised activity reserved for the Limbus, Rai Nepalis, and Lepchas — the women of the communities go so far as to preparing the yeast in the dark of night to keep the strictly
classified recipe hidden from prying eyes. This hereditary right passed down generations follows a matrilineal line; mothers teach their daughters the art much before they are of marriageable age, whispering the name of the secret ingredient — the root of a herb only found on the higher slopes of the land. Following traditional methods of making khesung, glutinous rice is left to soak in water overnight and for at least ten hours. The next morning, the women will add the dry components — spices such as ginger, chillies, and the roots of the all-important mystery herb, which are then finely pounded in a foot-driven wooden pestle or a mortar, known as
dekhi. Although the activity is largely women-centred, men help pound the paste.
The blend is then mixed with water to create a dough, which is dusted with powdered old khesung and kneaded further. Once ready, the dough is patted down into cakes measuring 2-5 cm in diameter and laid out onto a bamboo tray, wrapped in fern (Athyrium sp.) and put over the fireplace. Alternatively, the disc-shaped cakes may be covered in layers of leaves,
straw, and cloth, and allowed to ferment for a few days. Depending on the fermentation technique, the ingredient may be ready for use in three to seven days, completing the first of the two-stage fermentation process required in most homemade brews.
To make millet-based alcoholic beverages, millet seeds are cooked, soaked, washed, drained, and left to cool down. Once they are at a tepid temperature, the khesung is added and the mixture is left to ferment in a closed vessel for a minimum of four days — the longer it ferments, the stronger the brew. For some in the state, the making of khesung invokes a feeling of nostalgia as more and more people now prefer to buy it ready-made from the market — a single piece costing about 10 rupees. Nevertheless, the ingredient was always an exclusive product that even
traders from faraway parts would journey miles to get their hands on. Today, the ease of access brought about by better roads and the internet only makes it easier for sellers to continue the tradition.
The Great Himalayan Exploration
A multi-year project that began in 2022 in the Eastern Himalayas. Royal Enfield rider-researchers travel on-road to document and preserve ICH practices. The project aims to identify and document 200 ICH practices across the Himalayan region.
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