Takakkaw Falls 11 Pitches Plus a 100+m Tunnel at the Top - July 2021

This was about as epic as a climbing setting can get!

The falls have a total height of 373 meters (1,224 ft), making them the second tallest waterfall in Canada. The main drop of the waterfall has a height of 254 meters (833 ft) and it comes from rebounding off of the first falls.
Then there is the tunnel. You climb 11 pitches until you see a big hole in the side of the mountain.

I can’t imagine what it was like to do the first ascent, look at that tunnel, and discover that it leads directly to the mouth of the falls!!!

We moved pretty quick up the climb, so we didn’t take a ton of time for pictures on the way up, but on rappel, you can appreciate the full scale of the Falls!

The climbing was pretty easy, and we simul-climbed most of it. Jeff placed one cam to protect the top shale section, but otherwise, it was clipping bolts.

Such a sick day!!!
@jeffprice5
@rockytalkies
#takakkawfalls

Route Description and Beta from Mountain Project [with some comments from me]

Location
From the parking lot for Takakka Falls, follow the tourist trail across the bridge to the Takakkaw Falls viewpoint (10 minutes). [Just balance getting soaked by the spray and staying right]

Route starts just right of the top of the scree cone, far left from the waterfall. Start right off scrambling up a platform about 15' up and find a fat bolt at the start. [as you follow the wall up you'll reach a crest, and if you look back right, you can see a bolt.]

Pitch Descriptions:

1. 40 m, 5.4. Scramble up and right to a ledge with a bolt on the wall above, about 7 m left of a large, left-facing corner. Climb up past a second bolt and then move right past a third bolt and a fixed piton into the corner. Climb up and then right out of the corner on a ramp to reach easy ground and a bolted station a short distance above.

2. 15 m, 5.4. Climb the cracked wall above on good holds past two bolts to a second bolted station at the start of a long, narrow ledge system.

3. 20 m, 4th. Walk right along the ledge (exposed) past a bolt and around an arête to a bolted station.

4. 80 m, 4th. Continue traversing right and then drop down slightly into a scree bowl and move across to the base of a slabby wall, directly below the left side of the large pinnacle.

5. 40 m, 5.5. Climb an easy, left-facing crack to a ledge (bolt), traverse right, and then follow cracks up and slightly right to a two-bolt, rappel station below an overhang at the start of the big, left-facing corner system on the left side of the pinnacle.

4 & 5 alt. (recommended) 110 m, 5.4. Pitch 5 is often wet early in the season due to windblown spray from the falls. It may be avoided by traversing right on pitch 4 about 25 meters and climbing up to a bolted station roughly above where the “trail” drops down into the scree bowl. Trend right up past a bolt and then up to a ledge with fixed anchor. Pitch 5a. Follow ledge system to the start of pitch 6 while clipping 4 bolts.

6. 35 m, 5.6. Make an awkward move up into the corner and continue up past a fixed piton to a station in an alcove.

7. 40 m, 5.5. Follow the corner above to a ledge on the left with a fixed, rappel station. Climb easily up and right to a station at the top of the pinnacle level with, and in full view of the huge “rooster tail” in the falls.

8. 30 m, 5.7. The next pitch is very atmospheric with great views of the falls and
intimidating sound effects. Climb the wall above past three bolts to lower angle rock that leads up to a station below the shale band.

9. 25 m, 5.2. Climb easily through the shale band (no protection) [if simul climbing you may want to pull your partner up, as your follower will be climbing 5.7 while you are on the shale pitch with no pro.].

10. 25 m, 5.5. This pitch has two bolts and requires careful gear placement to avoid feeling run out. Seepage from the cave is common and can make the last bit of the pitch "exciting". Continue up and then left into a shallow groove that leads up to a station in a deep slot below the mouth of the cave.

11. 100 m. No rope is necessary beyond this point unless the climb is to be continued to the top of the cliff. However, you'll miss a great lunch spot at the top if you don't finish. Crawl along the cave passage into the realm of complete darkness and the distant thunder of the falls. After a tight section, a circle of daylight appears ahead and the sound of the falls grows louder. Finally, the cave emerges into a large basin where the stream rushes by towards the edge of the falls and the top of the cliff is visible a short distance above. Either return from here or climb one more pitch to the top of the cliff.

12. 30 m, 5.6 (optional). Scramble up and right to a single bolt belay below a short exit groove. Climb the groove and continue easily to broken ground at the top. [worth it]