Скачать или смотреть Stick Clip a Trad Placement (Alternative Method) with a Clipstick : Thumb Press Style Cam

In my previous video, you could seat cams with a thumb loop style ( e.g. Wild Country Friends, Black Diamond Camalot, Trango Flex Cam, etc) into the stick clip's bracket. However you'll notice thumb-press-style cams (e.g. DMM Dragons*, older Wild Country Friends, Totem Cams, Metolius Ultralight Master, etc) don't sit very well in it. So instead we're going to use the other end of our stick clip (or any smooth end tube/pipe will work too), and incorporate some reusable cable ties (Zip Ties).

Begin by tying your releasable clove hitch onto the cam with some thin cord **, (which could either be a long piece or a short piece tied to the other end of your rope). (You'll find tying on the clove hitch to be a little more tricky to do than on thumb loop style cams). Be sure the clove hitch loops lock on along the bottom of the thumb press.

You pretty much just need some sort of smooth-edged stiff structure the cam can be held on to by the cable tie, and also be able slide off of. Here are several options:
• If you're using your Kailas Clip up (or similar pronged-style stick clip), you can wrap some climbing tape around the head about 2cm below.
• You could use the other end of your stick clip if it's round and smooth (but the weight of the rope and cam may cause it to sort of bend from the weight)
• You could tape a 20cm section of 1" pipe to the head of your stick clip
• Experiment around yourself to see what works

If you're using some sort of pipe/tube or round stick, wrap a band of tape 2cm from the top. This will prevent the cam & cable tie from sliding down.

Place your cam parallel to the stick at the very top of the stick, then use a zip tie to attach the stem to the stick; be sure to place it below the trigger & right above the thumb press. Make sure you thread the zip tie on the inside of the pull string and not the outside . The zip tie should be tight enough so the cam stays in place and can't fall off, but not too tight where the cam cannot slide off.

Clip the climbing end of your rope to the cam.
Insert the cam into the crack, while lightly pulling on both strands of the climbing rope. Next, pull the release cord. Last, pull/twist out your stick clip.

Bounce-test piece before climbing on it.

DMM Dragons do work with my Kailas Clip Up, they just sit more angled in the bracket.
**If you find the short piece of cord tied to free end of your climbing rope is pulling out the clove hitch too soon due to weight or the added weight is bending your stick too much, then I suggest just using a long 6m+ (20ft+) length of cord to tie to the pull string instead, it'll be much lighter.

Update: This method should work with pretty much any sort of cam, including thumb loop types. And it doesn't require any special stick clip. Also whether or not the trigger rests against the pipe/tube/pole or on top is up to you. Against it offers more stability; on top allows smoother release and sliding off.

Disclaimer: This is pretty much an advanced tech tip for trad leaders already experienced with placing gear. After testing your stick-clipped piece, you could also place one below it after you've started climbing, but at least you're on some pro already. Be sure to inspect your piece when you arrive at it.

Huge thanks as always to by beautiful patient wife, crouching on her knees while we were recording multiple takes.

I found this article to be an interesting read:
https://pongoose.com/blogs/climbing-a...

#stickclip #clipstick #tradclimbing #cams #rockclimbing #攀岩 #climbingtechtips