Скачать или смотреть How to cut a Stylish shirt blouse with a double botton allowance

A double button allowance shirt just means the front has a wide overlapping placket that can carry two columns of buttons

1. Draft your basic shirt pattern
Draft your front blouse/shirt block as normal.
Mark the Center Front (CF) line clearly.
This CF is where the shirt opens.
2. Decide your button layout
Typical measurements:
Button size: ½–¾ inch
Space between buttons: 2½–3 inches
Distance between the two button rows: 1–1½ inches
3. Add the double button allowance
From the Center Front line, extend outward:
First overlap (inside placket): 1½ inches
Second overlap (outer placket): 1½ inches
Total extension: 3 inches (standard)

For a bold or jacket-style look, you can go up to 3½–4 inches.
Mark:
CF (original)
First button line
Second button line
Front edge fold line
4. Placket structure (very important)
You now have 3 zones:
Garment body
Inner button layer
Outer button layer
Add interfacing to the full placket width.
Fold once at 1½ inches, fold again at 3 inches.
Press sharply.
5. Cut the fabric
Cut:
Front piece with extended placket
Interfacing same width as placket
Back piece
Sleeves
Collar / collar stand
✂️ No need for a separate placket piece if using cut-on placket.
6. Sewing order
Fuse interfacing to placket.
Fold placket twice and stitch close to edge.
Sew shoulder seams.
Attach sleeves.
Sew side seams.
Fix collar.
Mark two parallel button lines.
Make buttonholes & sew buttons.
7. Button placement tip
First button: ½ inch below neckline
Last button: 2–3 inches above hem
Ensure both rows align perfectly (use chalk + ruler).


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