Removing a Very STUCK Bottom Bracket (Square Taper)

Bottom brackets can be seized or stubborn over time, especially when water gets into the frame or rusting in bottom bracket area.

Remove both the crank arms with the crank puller.

The square taper bottom bracket contains the cup and unit and taking the cup out first is preferable.

1994 Trek 930 SHX Singletrack - Shimano BB-LP30 / 73mm / 118mm Axle
1996 Specialized Ground Control - Shimano BB-LP26 / 73mm / 107mm Axle

The plastic or metal cups can be on either sides, so keep that in mind and identify your bottom bracket first. Like the Trek 930, the cup is on the drive side. On the other hand, the Specialized Ground Control has its cup on the non-drive side.

Turn it counter clockwise to remove.

The cup is removed, but not the unit on the other side.

Heating up the bottom bracket could help to break it loose.

Bring out a headset cap and crank arm fixing bolt.

Insert the bottom bracket tool, headset cap and crank arm fixing bolt to secure the tool in place.

The headset cap is from a quill stem converter.

If the crank bolt is too short, you’ll then need to find a M7 bolt in your local utility store but it could be hard to find.

Turn it clockwise with the wrench.

The adjustable wrench didn’t work out, so next step is to use the breaker bar with 32mm socket.

Clean the bottom bracket shell and then lubricate the threads and area.

A Hollowtech II bottom bracket will be installed.

More BB removal videos:
Worth Upgrading to Hollowtech II?    • Worth Upgrading to Hollowtech II?  
Replacing Square Taper Bottom Bracket To Hollowtech II    • Replacing Square Taper Bottom Bracket...  

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