#fendi #prada #fall2023
In a world forever changed by recent events, many have been struggling to find a new uniform for the way in which they want to navigate the world today. In Prada collection several variations on what that new hybrid uniform could be were represented by utilitarianism, masculinity, precision, and an enveloping of the body.
Seeking a ‘redress of purpose’ the slimmed-down suits from the menswear show were repurposed here, with the same sharp-collared cut-away shirt collars, attached to knitwear and an ultra-high-waist on cropped pants. A military take on the shirt dress saw it transform as a new iteration of an evening gown, complete with extended train. Describing it more succinctly the duo said, “Uniforms are sartorial representations of care and responsibility, transformed utilizing the aesthetic language of eveningwear”. Turning an aesthetic that was designed to reflect a sameness, mundanity even, being rethought for the occasion wear market is picking up on a narrative of how everyday clothing can speak to the consumer in a new way.
Talking about Fendi, Believing in the potency and allure of good design, todays collection was his strongest to date. Relying on the appeal of a well-cut coat and inventive construction techniques which will appeal to, rather than alienate the Fendi customer, the designer gave us a collection of – to use a term that we will all be over-familiar with this season – real world clothes. The use of hushed textures that gave a soft shine, such as satins and velvets helped to create a sense of tactility to contrast the utilitarian looks in leather, and there was a cohesive message of ultra-luxury in the paring back and pushing forward the idea of buying into simplicity, not only as a way to elevate but also to quiet the noise of the hyperbolic design trends, which have been popular of late.
Considering that the consumer is thinking twice about where they place their discretionary spend, there has been a slow, but steady wave who are looking to trade up and invest in fashion that lasts beyond the fads, and for fall 2023 Jone’s twisted knitwear, layered pants, and sequin lined coats will work hard for the money.
The palette of cool neutral tones reflected the times we are all living through, and created an elevated level of desirability by drumming home the idea of everyday clothes – from sharp tailored suits, to soft separates, asymmetric midi knits, and layered skirts and pants. The designer shifted focus onto clothes that will be coveted for their echoes of elegance.
It wasn’t all serious business (attire) though, as the “exploration and elevation of deconstruction” meant that tailored waistcoats came with grown on additions at the sides to create a 2-in-1 hybrid, with the same concept being applied to a pair of pants, very subversive indeed….
Timing:
00:00 Fall 2023 Fashion Trends
00:47 Prada Fall Winter 2023/2024 Fashion Show
04:26 Fendi Fall Winter 2023/2024 Fashion Show
07:44 Uniform Dressing As Fall 2023 Trend
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