What Chemicals do I Need for My Pool? Basic Overview

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How Much Chlorine do I Add to My Pool?:    • How Much Chlorine do I Add to My Pool?  
How to Check the Cyanuric Acid (Conditioner) Level :    • How to Check the Cyanuric Acid (Condi...  

SANITIZERS:
Liquid Chlorine Pool Sanitizer:    • Liquid Chlorine Pool Sanitizer  
Pool Shock, Cal Hypo:    • Pool Shock, Cal Hypo  
Trichlor 3" Chlorinating Tablets:    • 3" Trichlor Chlorine Tablets, User Guide  
Dichlor Pool Sanitizer:    • Dichlor Pool Sanitizer  

SALT WATER POOL CARE:
Salt Water Pool Care, Part One- Overview & Chemistry:    • Salt Water Pool Care, Part One - Over...  
Salt Water Pool Care, Part Two - Adding salt:    • Salt Water Pool Care, Part Two- Addin...  


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You may need to add Conditioner, but if you use tablets conditioner is released. Most pool Technicians agree that your Conditioner level should be around 30-50ppm. So you may need 3 or 5 pounds (Salt pools also need a slight amount of Conditioner even though Chlorine is produced on a daily basis, the sun can still be too much for a pool with no conditioner).

Again, I use Yellowtrine only and no other Algae chemicals. It is highly effective. If your pool is totally covered in algae use at least 4-5 capfuls and 4 gallons of liquid chlorine. Also shock the pool as the Yellowtrine and Algae will eat the chlorine up pretty quick. You don't want to zero out the Chlorine as the algae will then spread like wildfire. It takes some practice, so err on the side of too much and not too little.

Tablets: The 3" Chlorine tablets on their own does not generate any free chlorine levels. If your pool is zeroed out, you will need to add shock or liquid chlorine and then the tablets will keep the chlorine level up by slowly dissolving.

ALKALINITY

There are a number of factors that contribute to the "balance of the water." The most important are the pH and the alkalinity. The alkalinity is the ability of the water to buffer the pH (or buffer chemicals that may effect the pH). The alkalinity is like an auto-pilot or cruise-control for the pH.

If the alkalinity is out of the acceptable range, then any small factor will cause a wild swing in the pH. This is called "pH bounce." Because of this, the alkalinity is the first thing that should be brought into line when balancing the water.

An ideal range for the alkalinity is 100-120 ppm (though 80 - 140 ppm is acceptable).

pH 7.4-7.6

The pH of the water, determines if it is acidic or basic. Either extreme can have disastrous effects on the pool finish, equipment, or plumbing. When the pH is out of range, bathers may complain of eye discomfort or other ailments.

An acidic pH will cause the water to become aggressive. It will etch the plaster and cement finishes around the pool. Worse yet, it will dissolve the metallic components of the pool.

The ideal range for the pH is 7.4 - 7.6 (though 7.2 - 7.8 is acceptable).

Sanitizer

After the alkalinity & pH are brought into range, the next adjustment is the sanitizer. Chlorine is the most common and least expensive of the available sanitizers. The acceptable range is 1.5 - 3 ppm, though 4 - 5 ppm is absolutely fine. A commercial spa should be maintained at much higher levels - 5 - 6 ppm.

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