THE FABRIC OF A QUALITY SUIT

This week we’ll be discussing fabric, the first topic of our three-part series: What makes a Quality Suit?

The first thing to consider when evaluating a suit’s quality is the material used to make it. A high quality suit is made from 100% wool, and not just any kind of wool—merino wool.

Merino wool is a type of worsted wool, which differs from other woollens. Worsteds go through a process that yields longer finer fibres, parallel to each other and tightly bound, making for a lustrous and smooth fabric texture.

What’s more is that merino wool is strong. The fabric holds itself but can be easily flexed and stretched without damage; and, the more it’s worn, the more it takes your body’s shape, resulting in a better fit and comfort level.

Merino wool is also breathable, and much like silk, is versatile when it comes to keeping you warm or letting you cool off.

Another element to consider in terms of suit quality is thread fineness, often discussed in terms of the “Super number”. Individual fibres are measured in micrometers, and from that measure, the number of hanks that could be spun from a pound of raw wool is evaluated; the result of this equation is the Super number. The higher the number, the finer the fibres are. High quality fabrics are anywhere in the Super 100s to Super 250s range.

However, it is important not to base oneself solely on absolutes in this regard. The higher a fabric’s Super number is, the smoother and more malleable it is, yet the more fragile and less durable it is. There is a trade off to be made and thus the sweet spot for a great suit is usually below Super 150.

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