Sewing knits on a sewing machine: 3 best stitches for side seams

You can sew stretchy knits on a regular sewing machine using the right methods and seams. In this sewing video tutorial, I show you how 3 different ways to sew side seams on knit fabrics on a sewing machine.

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When sewing stretchy knits on sewing machine, use a good quality
ballpoint needle to avoid holes and skipped stitches. For sewing
machines, common stretch needle sizes are 75 or 80 which will
suffice on most projects.

Most machines will have a seam that overcasts the edges and
mimics the serger overlock seam. Those are often called stretch seams
or overlock seams – check your manual to see which ones that are
recommended for very stretchy fabrics.

Also note that a different presser foot is usually needed when sewing these
stretchy seams. It can look something like this and is designed to make overcasting easier. Again check your manual for more info.

Always do a test sample using your intended fabric and stretch stitch. Notice how I guide the fabric with my fingers to keep the seam from stretching out.
Stretch the seam
to make sure it recovers after being stretched out and that the stitches
won’t pop. If the seam passes those tests you are all set to go!

The sewing machine stretch seams have the following properties
• Durable
• Highly elastic
• Similar seam
allowance to a serger stitch
• Can be difficult to rip

If your machine lacks a stretch seam
or if your stretch seam doesn’t work as
intended you can also a narrow zigzag
stitch. For a more durable seam use
use two rows of zigzag stitches, one narrow and one medium
First sew the inner row using a
narrow zigzag (Width: 0.5 and Length:1.5)
Then finish the edges with a wider
zigzag.

The zigzag stitch is
• Elastic
• Durable when
stitched twice
• Versatile

The third option for sewing side seams on a sewing machine is the mock flat locks seam.
This is a great option to create a very flat seam on a regular sewing machine.

You first sew one row of zigzag stitches, then press
the seam allowances apart and then, from the right side, topstitch over
the seam. This option will create the flattest seam since it only sews over
one layer of seam allowance on each side.

Pick a decorative stitch that also has some stretch. Sew from the right side,
making sure that seam is aligned in the middle of the side seam.

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